1175 injector lines

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

I replaced all injectors, seals, and return lines tee's. Due to an injector leaking from the head seal. At 44 years no point in replacing one seal. Two return line tees broke off while I removed them. Glad that didn't happen Bush hogging!Dad wasn't in shape to do much repairs his last few years of farming. So water took it toll on the fuel and hydraulics. After replacing these things I had a leak on two lines where the fuel line connects to the injector. I removed it, re cleaned and retightend. I ran that tractor at high rpm's for several minutes each time to recheck for leaks. After installing the hood and putting it to work real time I have 4 leaks at that location. Are these just normal double flared steel lines? Or something special that's Case only?

451 CUBES · Jan 29, 2017

Unless you are convinced you have a cracked line, I'd go try one more time to clean up the connection(s). Break it apart, push a small hunk of cloth rag in each opening (line and injector). Take a scorch brite pad or something similar - I wouldn't use sand paper...and touch up both flares. Hit the threads with a wire brush too. Spritz everything with a penetrant to flush off any debris, oil the threads, pull the rags and tighten it back up. Be sure to use two wrenches.
As far as standard lines, you will want to stick with the proper Case lines. If you are convinced you have a bad one, salvage yards will have what you need.

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:10:12 01/29/17) Unless you are convinced you have a cracked line, I'd go try one more time to clean up the connection(s). Break it apart, push a small hunk of cloth rag in each opening (line and injector). Take a scorch brite pad or something similar - I wouldn't use sand paper...and touch up both flares. Hit the threads with a wire brush too. Spritz everything with a penetrant to flush off any debris, oil the threads, pull the rags and tighten it back up. Be sure to use two wrenches.
As far as standard lines, you will want to stick with the proper Case lines. If you are convinced you have a bad one, salvage yards will have what you need.

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

I tried everything but. the scotch bright. I'll bring one home and give it a shot. I'm not a salvage yard guy unless it's last choice. I've worked on to many cars where I ended up with the same junk I had to work with already. I'll pay the $100 plus per line to save me wasting hours of labor.
I work in autobody repair. Can't count the hours I've wasted on insurance companies used parts. Haha.
I don't me to sound rude. It's just a fact for me.

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

But first I'll double flare the end again just to see if it works.

451 CUBES · Jan 29, 2017

I see new lines are available...didn't think they would be, that's why I mentioned salvage. $110 or so. CaseIH Parts online is your friend.

http://partstore.caseih.com

Anyhow, yeah, clean those flares and threads up real good, that may help. Be very mindful of getting contamination in the lines. I'd leave that hood off until you fix the leaks. As a body guy, you may not find it painfull taking that thing on and off all the time, but I do. Used an 1175 many years (still do), but after picking up a 90 series with a tilt hood, I shake my head every time I lift it up....45 min vs 10 seconds....

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

Yeah I'll give that a try. I'll remove them completely and clean them. I wasn't expecting something to leak that didn't before. But corrosion should've been on my mind more. I kept the hood off until it departed running it twice at higher tons and no leaks for 20 minutes each time. Have to run an errand in between. Fire gizzard. But in the real world those two failed again along with two others. If they are true double flared steel lines I can make them. Removed I can figure that out. Just thought I'd ask with the experience here. Doesn't seem they are any different. Looking at the injector side anyway.

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

And sorry for all the typo's

1175AgriKing · Jan 29, 2017

Yeah I'll give that a try. I'll remove them completely and clean them. I wasn't expecting something to leak that didn't before. But corrosion should've been on my mind more. I kept the hood off until it departed running it twice at higher tons and no leaks for 20 minutes each time. Have to run an errand in between. Fire gizzard. But in the real world those two failed again along with two others. If they are true double flared steel lines I can make them. Removed I can figure that out. Just thought I'd ask with the experience here. Doesn't seem they are any different. Looking at the injector side anyway.

1370rod · Jan 30, 2017

It is unusual to have a leak at the injector to fuel line connection. If they were not leaking before I would suspect something in your assembly procedure is causing them
to leak. You must use the 2 wrench method on the fittings when loosening or tightening to prevent twisting and damage. Everything must be absolutely clean. I like to use
compressed air carefully cleaning both ends right before assembly and them a squirt of light lube oil to help them seat and tighten. I have never heard of repairing the
ends and there should be no reason to to so. If there is some kind of damage to the ends I think you will have to replace the faulty part. Just my 2 cents worth, Rod.

1175AgriKing · Jan 30, 2017

Thanks Rod. I found an article on injection lines. Even on autos I haven't worked on then. They can be made. But it's a pain. And it's not a true double flare. I did use two wrenches at all times.
Next weekend I'm going to removed the lines completely so I can see them and properly clean them. Also last night another thing dawned on me. I eyed the injector straight to the line and torques it down. Then attached the fuel line. They appear straight. I may loosen the injectors then lines and then re torque the injectors in in case a small angle is affecting the sealing. 1000 grit sandpaper should clean the line ends. Running 3500 pounds of pressure that grit should polish it without having a scratch to deep to cause a leak.
The leak is also very small. No drips. Took driving it 4 miles and to leak and it's just mildly seeping down the engine.

Corrosion from past water was so bad the return tees were really bad. One cracked when I loosed the next one from it. And yes using two wrenches. So I should've removed the lines for better inspection to start with.Maybe I overtightened them?

1175AgriKing · Feb 5, 2017

Update: lesson learned. Remove the injector lines for inspection on an old tractor even if they don't leak. What I couldn't see was the back inside of the nut. The 3 lines that gave me the most trouble had some rust in the threads and wouldn't let it tighten to the new injectiontors. The aftermarket ones are a little different. And apparently need an extra thread to tighten on. 8 hours wasted on a hard lesson learned. Well I hope just 8. Took me 5 to get it back to hooking all the lines up. Out of time. But hopefully I can finish up in 3. Install the breather and pipe and I'll run her high throttle an hour or so...then replace the firewall hood. May drive it a while before putting the main hood on.

1175 injector lines

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