I inherited 2 Case tractors

Levi

Member
So My wife's Grandfather passed away recently. I am the only farmer in that side of the family now and My mother in law asked me if I would like his tractors and combine, an A gleaner. I said I would take them
The tractors are both LP wheatland tractors, The one I know what it is is a D and the other I think is an 800. The one i think is an 800 I swear has 4 cylinders but it may have 6. The one time I remember
looking at the tractor close I feel like i remember looking at a four banger with a long stroke like an old minnie but it has been so long and i was just looking around the place would it be a six. Both
tractors are locked up, what should i put in the plug holes, My grandfather believed in Marvel mystery oil Father in law says WD 40 another guy says 50 50 kerosene and ATF. what would you guys use?
Thank you and have a great day
Levi
 
My Dad worked for Standard Oil and liked the ATF Kerosene mix. I just read an article about using ATF and Acetone that looked like a good idea. i'll be curious to hear what you use and how it works.
 
If in fact it is a "D". Drain the fluid/oil from the pan, see if you have any or much water. It will have inspection/work thru plates on the pan side. After you get it soaking have a look inside at the crank and rods. How bad or how good things are will be revealed there. I had someone give me tractors once also. It was great to bring one back to life,the other is still waiting. gobble
 
Either will help, but patience should be your prime virtue. Good luck and keep us posted. Ben
 
Hello Levi,

Congratulations on receiving a couple of Case tractors. The tractors you describe will both be 4 cylinder machines. One bit of advice from personal experience is that it might be stuck valves and not pistons keeping the motors from turning over. Not often, but it does happen and if you try to tow start them you'll end up with bent pushrods. Don
 
In the past couple of years, I use solely ATF and acetone. It works! An awful lot of professional and
hobbyist info led me to try it, and it works. One of my students (I taught AG/Diesel at a post
secondary tech school in MN) brought in a pre WW II Packard st eight long block. It had been designated
in the 50s to go into the foundation of a silo they were erecting. It wasn't needed so it was left in
the corner and soon covered with silage. When the bankruptcy tubes were finally taken down a few years
ago, the engine was discovered and brought in as curio. We put a 3/4 drive breaker bar, w/a suitable
cheater pipe and filled the cylinders with atf/acetone. Every day someone would walk by and give it
push. It took the winter but that mixture freed up that block....... I've used it around the farm in a
small squeeze bottle and find it amazing. Be aware that the acetone evaporats quite quickly from the mix
though....... Give it try guys
 
Everyone else has been helpful as to what to use to loosen the motors, so I will just add that an 800 is a 4 cylinder, it would also be a Case o Matic, if it truly is an 800.
Post some pictures when you get them home!!!
 
I could never find pictures online of what i was sure was an 800 and be able to tell for sure if it was a 4 or 6 cylinder. talked to my wifes folks last night and they are pretty sure it had an 8 in the name. I know hardly anything about Case tractors, I farm mostly with IH, Allis, and Deere. Do you guys think the tractor would have hydraulics? if so would it have 2 remotes? If it has two do you think it would have enough power to pull a six row planter. I may be able to rent the ground that this tractor worked on since new and a six row would be better for point rows than the twelve row i would take there on my working tractor. It would be nice to be able to run two machines so i could get home faster and i think it would be really cool for the tractor to farm again where it started. pluss the ground has a lot of terraces and six rows on the point rows would be better than 12.
thanks again guys
Levi
 
I buy a lot of tractor with locked up engines and I have free up more then 30 of them. DO NOT use WD40 or MMO or ATF mixed with any thing.

USE ATF all by it self. Fill the cylinders with ATF and put the plugs back in. Let ti sit a week or 2 and then set a 12 volt battery on it and use short fast taps of the starter while watching the crank shaft pulley for movement. If you get any movement pull the plugs out and keep trying. By the way do not stand on the side that has the plugs or you will be taking a shower and not one you want to take. Many of the ones I have freed up that is all I did to them other then maybe replace the points and clean the carb but most it was points only.
 
Also , the "D" has the clutch running in the engine oil. There is a pipe plug directly under the flywheel, make sure and drain that too, Maybe bend a bottle brush so you can scrub out the crud that collects in there, it'll be deep ! That 4 bolt cover below the clutch release shaft is good access too.
 
One guy told me to use equal parts of Marvel Mystery Oil, kerosene, and ATF. Seems like ATF is the common denominator in most recommendations on here. I would pull off the rocker arm assembly to prevent bending the push rods when you try to rotate the engine. I would not remove the head. If you do, you could end up loosening a sleeve instead of a piston. You could jack up one of the rear wheels and put it in high gear. Then periodically walk by and shake the wheel back and forth.
 
All good advice. Don is right about the valves being stuck. Check every one for freeness or you will be looking for different pushrods at the least. "old" sure has done more than me - but I have had great luck mixing a little brake fluid and diesel with the ATF.....let it sit in there for a couple of weeks like they say. If it were me I'd pull the starter and use a small pry bar between the starter opening a ring gear tooth. I smoked my starter field trying to bump it.You can get more umph too.
Good Luck
 
Seafoam Deep Creep has worked for me on a Farmall H and a D7 Cat. It comes in spray cans and pints. Fill the spark plug holes the best you can with the pints and top off with spray cans.
 
Acetone is readily available at any hardware store, in with paint thinners, alcohol solvents etc. I use it most as a solvent for fiberglass resin. Mix in 50/50 you will be surprised.
 
So what would be the best way to check for stuck valves. I may be able to get out there to his farm and look this next weekend but the weather is supposed to be bad so who knows.
thanks
Levi
 
Levi
If it were me I would back off the rocker arm adjusters until you can get the rockers out of the way. Count how many turns you loosen the adjustment. Once rockers are out of the way, use a small pry bar to push down on the valve, with the bar "claw" on the rocker assembly and the valve top as the "fulcrum" point. Put rocker back and tighten the adjuster back down however many turns you loosened it once you determine the valve is not stuck. Do one at a time. You'll get a feel of what it takes to push one down with a bar if not stuck. Tap very lightly to loosen stuck ones. It'll take awhile but beats bent pushrods.
Take your time. Good luck.
 

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