Whats the trick to.....

removing the fuel and/or COM lever at the dash without destroying it and the dash? Drill the roll pin out that is thoroughly rusted in? Then the problem of getting the aluminum lever off the shaft? By the way, this is on a Case 611B.
 
It is very difficult to get the throttle lever off w/o destroying it. Roll pin is harder than most drill bits and difficult to get a straight shot at drilling. You could try a hi-carbon bit. I have pretty much given up on trying to save one.

I don't find any replacement levers on YT but John Saeli has them. Spendy but worth it considering the hassle and frustration of trying to save the original which probably won't happen anyway.

Just my opinion, BTDT.

Joe
 
Cannot help you with that but what part of the great state of misery are you in?? I'm here at the lake of the Ozarks
 
Hey old, I'm near the great city of Fordland, about an hour southwest of you. Don't blink or you'll miss it.

Just as I suspected, Joe. I have seen those levers on Ebay occasionally and yes, not cheap.
 
Ya I know about where fordland is if I remember right it is just off of Hwy 65 north the Springfield
 
Joe: Everybody that called here wanted that Handle. Obsoleted from CASE. Roger Hornbaker did cast some from plastic, but they did not hold up. So, we bit the bullet & spent $1500 on a mold, then had to pay so much a handle to have them cast & machined. Result is a very nice re-production Made In The USA G1085 handle at the extreme low price of $42.00. And....here they sit, barking @ us every time we walk by.
 
Well, this is what I would do. Cut off a peice of 3/8" black iron pipe about 2" long. Tack weld it to a 10# maul head and have some one hold the maul on one side of lever while I put a roll pin punch it the lever on other side and drive it out. Then hopefully you can get the handle moveing on the shaft, and off. Lots of penetrating oil beforehand will also help. Then grind the pipe off maul head.
Loren
 
John, I wasn't knocking your price. I know you have a large inventory and usually the lowest prices around. But the fact is it is a spendy item for a guy that isn't interested in an original restoration, but just wants a working throttle lever.

Loren has an idea that may work with 2 strong guys. I've tried that method but the roll pin is usually bonded to the shaft, and if so, there is no drifting it out.

Even when you buy a new lever and take the old one off in pieces, you still have to get the pin out. The best way for me on a bonded pin is to grind the pin ends off and pull the shaft assembly out where I can get at it. Of course that takes quite a bit of removal pieces and time but I can renew the friction disc at the same time.

On the other hand if you're short of time and temper you can break off the old lever, grind down the pin, silver solder the appropriate size 3/8" drive socket on the shaft end and you will have a nearly unbreakable, portable throttle lever using one of those totally useless 3/8" breaker bars that is included in every set for some reason.

Joe
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Joe!! I'm surprised!! That does not look like your work!! I have drilled those pins out, but usually takes more than 1 bit, and at least a couple of sharpenings.
 
I went thru the same problem on my 311B and broke the lever up, but eventually got the roll pin out. Now my problem is to remove the plate to install a new friction disc. The roll pin looks even smaller. If I can't remove plate, then PLAN B is to cut a slot in the friction disc and slip between the plates. BTW got a used lever from my son for Christmas.
 

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