Had other matters that needed attention, so I didn't get as much done today as I hoped. But things are moving on.
The first photo shows the seat mount removed
The second shows what will be a 1/2" plate welded to the vertical plate and bolted to the tractor with 5/8" bolts. At this point my bracket is attached to the tractor with 4, 5/8" bolts and 4, 1/2" bolts. All will be grade five and go into the tractors castings a minimum of 1" threaded holes. I got to hand it to Case they made those castings nice and thick! Additional the rock shaft pillow bearings are secured to the bracket with 4, 3/4" grade 5 bolts through bolted on the top pair.
The third photo is for a sharp eyed viewer who saw that the PTO has a cover on it with an attachment for the toplink. This was standard on model S & D tractors with the Eagle hitch. While it works it renders the PTO unusable. Case also had another link point higher up on the stern to enable use of the PTO, I plan on doing the same.
Fourth photo shows the whole set up with my 24" "toplink" in place. This is 1 1/2" shorter then the lower arms and gives the hitch a couple of degrees of positive rotation when in the fully raised position.
Pictures 5 & 6 are views of the hitch in lowered and raised positions.
Another viewer asked what the tractors rear wheels came from? Honestly I don't know, The hubs and weights are standard Case S, but the rims are split and can mount a much wider tire then normal.The tires on it at the moment are 14.9 X 24s. A previous owner told me at one time she had even wider tires, the belt pulley had a couple of inches cut off the outer edge to allow clearence.
Here in South Florida our soil (if you can call it that) is sugar sand with organic muck mixed in, the closer you get to the everglades the more muck you get. The soil is very soft,so the bigger the foot print the better off you are. The oldtimers call this a "Floridaized" tractor. I have seen old steel wheel tractors down here with multiple rows of rim extensions on them.
Tomorrow I will fill you in on my planed live hydraulic set-up.
The first photo shows the seat mount removed
The second shows what will be a 1/2" plate welded to the vertical plate and bolted to the tractor with 5/8" bolts. At this point my bracket is attached to the tractor with 4, 5/8" bolts and 4, 1/2" bolts. All will be grade five and go into the tractors castings a minimum of 1" threaded holes. I got to hand it to Case they made those castings nice and thick! Additional the rock shaft pillow bearings are secured to the bracket with 4, 3/4" grade 5 bolts through bolted on the top pair.
The third photo is for a sharp eyed viewer who saw that the PTO has a cover on it with an attachment for the toplink. This was standard on model S & D tractors with the Eagle hitch. While it works it renders the PTO unusable. Case also had another link point higher up on the stern to enable use of the PTO, I plan on doing the same.
Fourth photo shows the whole set up with my 24" "toplink" in place. This is 1 1/2" shorter then the lower arms and gives the hitch a couple of degrees of positive rotation when in the fully raised position.
Pictures 5 & 6 are views of the hitch in lowered and raised positions.
Another viewer asked what the tractors rear wheels came from? Honestly I don't know, The hubs and weights are standard Case S, but the rims are split and can mount a much wider tire then normal.The tires on it at the moment are 14.9 X 24s. A previous owner told me at one time she had even wider tires, the belt pulley had a couple of inches cut off the outer edge to allow clearence.
Here in South Florida our soil (if you can call it that) is sugar sand with organic muck mixed in, the closer you get to the everglades the more muck you get. The soil is very soft,so the bigger the foot print the better off you are. The oldtimers call this a "Floridaized" tractor. I have seen old steel wheel tractors down here with multiple rows of rim extensions on them.
Tomorrow I will fill you in on my planed live hydraulic set-up.
