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Case powershift valve removal??????

C

Case Farm kid

Member
Good day - 970 home but shifting issues (stalling in reverse - etc.) demand the removal of the valve body for a good rinsing/inspection. Got all of the major bolts out and the two large lines disconnected... however the valve body won't budge! I know it will be white metal/soft metal/critical clearances,... etc - where would you pry to move or what would you use to get it off!? Gently prying in many corners and won't budge - all bolts out - top cover won't even budge... Any advice would be appreciated! Brian Case farm kid
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Pry up on any of the corners of the top cover, it is cast and you will not hurt it. On some that gasket can really be stuck and others it will almost fall off. Rod.
 
You need to take the pivot bolts out of the clutch and shift control arms, and remove the cable mtg bracket, and then you can put a crows foot under one of the spools and pry up carefully. It should come loose. If you are weary of that, pry up on the cover extension where the shift cable bracket is bolted.
Loren
 
Thank you for confirming its tough enough to pry - no force with hammer recommended? I'll pull the two bolts for the shifter/clutch as well. No mention of that in the manual... tried prying on the corners... no go with pry bar. I'll give a little more umph! Thank you for the advice. Brian Case farm kid
 
Good day, Back at today. Got some cans of air and will clean the area before further attempts... bad time for my compressor to pack it in! Small block chevy intakes can be a bugbear to get off but plenty of room to bash in a straight edge screwdriver. This has never been off and she is stuck good. Will update as I progress. Thank you for confirming where to attack! Brian Case farm kid
 
Brian, I am working on a 970 PS as well and just had the same dilemma 2 days ago. I pried on the corners like Rod said, with a very big bar, and it did come loose in good shape. Phew... Gasket makes it stick more than I ever would have thought. Will be a treat to clean the gasket off for sure. You are in excellent company here with the guys on this forum. A ton of knowledge, and nice folks too. Rod has a great post on here about cleaning the control valve. I'm gonna be humbly requesting their help too, I think. Cleaning up control valve, and going to attempt to rebuild the powershift on mine. Sat outside unused 20+ years with bad PS, and other issues. GOOD LUCK!
 
Hey, Thanks for the message - good luck to you too. Mine was not using the relief valve in the filters (crossing fingers... for sure!) - but that powershift valve would not come off no matter how hard I pried. I got a screwdriver under a corner of the valve unit and it finally gave up and came loose - but not before screwing up the corner of the valve body- JB Weld time to get that flat and true. Obvious it has never been off of the tractor. Cleaned off the tractor surface and next is to attack the valve body as per service manual. Take care - Brian Case farm kid
 
Good day - thank you for the lead on the posting - Cleaning a RPS 34 Control Valve was the title and some beauty pics too! Originally from 1370rod... Am hoping my valves aren't too stuck. Thought I'd locate that for you if you didn't have that (and for anyone else following along). Brian Case farm kid
 
I see you got this apart. A trick my dad taught me to remove covers is to take a hammer and tap on the cover where the mating surfaces are. Start in one spot and work your way around the cover. At first it will sound solid but as you work at it the sound will change to a more hollow sound. Then you can take the cover off. If things go well you can sometimes save the gasket.
 
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