1952 Case-How to replace a grease seal behind the brakes

Case52

Member
11/15/16 I am having trouble getting the square 4 bolt plate with the seal back on the 4 studs sitting on the side of hthe transmission. The plate has a 1 inch inner howsing that fits into the transmission case very tightly and it won't line up. Any help appreciated.
Larry
 
11/16/16 I did not know that. This is the only tractor I have had for 41 years. I have a 1952 Case Vac. I just did a clutch, turned out great. The brakes are under the foot board in drums that come out of a shaft from inside the transmission. I pulled everything apart had the brake pads replaced and am putting everything back together. My problem is there is a 4 bolt flat plate with a 1 inch thick housing that fits inside the transmission that I took off to replace the oil seal and can't get it back on. I've tried turning the wheel to raise the spine that the plates fits over. I tried freezing the plate to make the 1 inch inside flange smaller,but that only cracked the rubber on the new oil seal. Now I am thinking of taking the back wheels off so I can get straight line up and replace the four bolts with threaded rod and drawing the plate evenly on the shaft. My only concern is this is a cast plate and too much pressure may break one of the ears.
Any help appreciated
Larry
 
Not sure what to tell you about getting the plate that holds the seal and bearing race. I have replaced the seal that way and just wiggled the shaft around until it fit. It was somewhat difficult but I didn't think it was that bad. I usually pull the old seal without removing the plate. Be sure to check the welch plugs in the ends of the shafts.
 
11/17/16 I will admit I will never take the 4 bolt flat plat that contains the seal off ever again. When you take off that plate to knock out the seal everything is great, but try to put that plate back on with the seal in it. When you pull that plate the splined shaft inside the trans that turns with the main wheel gear drops down about 2 inches and won't line up when you put the plate/seal assembly back on. I had to take both back tires off so I could get a direct face to face line up with the 4 bolts and the spline shaft would not line up. It took me 2 days to figure out the the spline shaft inside the trans must be connected somehow in the middle of the transmission because the only way you can freely push up the spline shaft high enough to put the plate on is jack up the tractor and take the weight off both wheels. And then because the shaft is so heavy, you shove the shaft/seal assmebly on and the lower part of the shaft destroys the rubber on the seal. I had to put my old seal back on because the rubber was thicker 20 years ago. I filled the outside of my old seal with silicon cauking and pasted a flat gasket of blue jean material on the silicon so if the seal leaked it would run down to the weep hole in the brake casting. If I ever did it again, I would drill 2 holes in the old oil seal, take a dent puller and put 2 screws in it and screw them into the seal, slam the weight on the dent driver, put the new seal on the tractor shaft and hold up the spline to tap the seal in evenly all the way around. Case knew they had a problem when they made the outside casting with a weep hole for the oil to drain. Trying to get this tractor ready for snow. Catch you later.
Larry
 
11/17/16 I got the plate to line up only by taking both back wheels off so there was not any weight on either shaft. It frees up both shaft on each side to line that
plate up, but smashes the rubber on the new seal when you put it back together. Like you said pull it without pulling that plate. A guy told me yesterday that they
drill 2 holes in the seal, put 2 long screws in a dent puller, slam the weight and out it comes. Slide the new seal over the shaft and hold the shaft up high enough to
tap the seal evenly around. Catch you later
 
Ok, well watch your weep hole. If your "fix" doesn't hold any oil that leaks into the brake housing will eventually end up soaking the brake pads due to the rotating differential shaft/brake parts. The only real fix is a new seal. Anyway you really are creative and I suspect a very good wrench puller. Best of luck.

Joe
 
If you ever need to pull the plate again you might want to do one side at a time, the shaft doesn't have as much movement.
 
11/21/16
Thanks for the heads up on the brake oil seal for the 1952 Case. I overfilled my transmission with new 90 weight. I can't find the drain plug. I have a fill hole for the hydraulics right below the sediment bowl for the carb and a fill hole for the transmission next to the shifter, but only one drain plug below under the transmission. It wouldn't make any sense to have separate fill holes above and one drain plug below. Do you know any different? Am I missing something?
Larry
 
12/01/16 Well I had to do the one oil seal over Because when you take the plate off and put the seal in and try to get it over the shaft that dropped is not good. The
weight of the shaft smashes the rubber and the seal leaks bad. Doing the job over I did'nt take the plate off, I drilled 3 small holes in the oil seal,(smaller than a
drywall screw. Put 3 -21/2 inch drywall screws and small washers through 3 brackets I make to fit a small wheel puller and screwed the drywall screws into the drilled
holes inm the oil seal, attached the brackets to the wheel puller, tighened up the puller and the old seal came out like butter. Greased up the new seal, slid over the
shaft very carefully not damaging the rubber, evened the seal out and drove it on with a 21/4 socket that I used to take the brake drum off with.. No leaks so far, but
it makes the job real easy if you take the back wheel off.
Larry
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top