changing 830 caseomatic to a dual range???

I have a 62 case 830 diesel caseomatic. it has a junk aftermarket widefront that is non adjustable and has been welded on many times.. Question number 1- is there anyone near southern michigan that has a decent case widefront or narrow front for sale? Question number 2- is it possible to put a dry clutch in a caseomatic tractor and convert it back to a straight dual rannge and get rid of the torque converter drive? or are we talking major surgery? of course im sure the tractor would have to be split, but has anyone ever done it before? my tractor works as it should,im just not a fan of that transmission... id even be willing to do a trade deal to get a 730 or 830 with a dual range set up. thanks for any input!
 
It is not that hard to change caseomatic to dual range. I did my 64 830D about 25 years ago. I took all the Com parts off from the transmission to the engine and replaced them parts from a 400 gas. Had to take the gas flywheel to a machine shop and have it turned to take the diesel ring gear. The hardest part was putting the flywheel back on, until I figured out one bolt spaced different. Every thing worked good.
 
When I changed my com, something went wrong with the oil cooler and overheated. Lost the direct drive and the com was weak. It was less money that way. I still like caseomatic, and I have 4 of them.
 
I have two 830 caseomatics and 2 800's I find the caseomatic quite useful. I use mine on a round bailer,haybine loader and snow blower. wouldn't be without them. I think the over heating issue is caused by the operator the difference between case o matic in a given gear and direct drive in the next lower gear is hardly noticeable. So there is little reason to run in case o matic matic for an extended period of time. I've never overheated one.
 
Like when you are trying to feed a wad of hay into a square baler by holding the brakes and about that time it jumps ahead and plugs everything up. We baled many thousands of hay and straw bales with an 830 com. Case should have named it the jerk-o-matic because they were too stupid to put in a modulating valve except in 59 which they promptly removed in 60.
 
I think you are wrong on that. A field repair kit was available so you could feather the clutch on pre-'60 tractors, After 1960 a modified spool was equipped @ the factory. Still required a sensitive foot. I get the impression you are slam bam.
 
Oh do you? You don't know dick about me or my farming. I will keep your thoughts in mind the next time I need to order parts of which I have bought a few things from you over the years.
 
when we used the 800 on a 273 new Holland square baler if we came to a slug when we stopped we simply sliped into low first and ran it through. I wouldn't expect the brakes to hold it with the rpm at pto speed in any of the lower gears.
 
What the heck? Here I go. I beg to differ with John.
Dad bought a 1962 830 com diesel new that can not be feathered. I got many butt chews from people working the wagon
behind a junk 14T JD baler pulled by that 830 and driven by a six year old.(me) The old baler would not tie if the rpms
were not up or it would shear a pin. Dad said to hold the brakes and let the pedal up. At pto speed and in low third or second that tractor would jump out of its skin. I threw several workers off the wagon and unloaded several bales. There is no feather to that tractor. That 830 is still in the shed and if we start it today it will still jump at anything over a low idle in a short gear You can hold the brakes in a tall gear and feather it.
I have a 1959 800 diesel and at full throttle with the bush hog I can take off as smooth as a clutch tractor .
in any gear. We have had many low tin 730s and 830s and non of them worked like the 800 does. Just my experience.
 

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