D getting water in oil

E. Schoen

Member
I have a retired friend that has been working on a model D since last spring. He has replaced radiator core, water pump, had head magnafluxed and redone, new sleeves and O-rings. still getting water in the oil. Any suggestions?
 
Depending on how much water is getting in, might put some block sealer in the coolant and see if that stops it.
 
That's what he is considering doing. Said he drained 2 1/2 qts out, but I don't know over how much time. Less than 2 weeks for sure and not ran much. What brand would you recommend?
 
I would remove the four inspection plates from the pan. Shine a light in there and look to see where the water is coming from. Could have a cut o ring.
 
That much water I would do like the others say pull inspection covers and see if you can see a seem. By now it may have created a rust trail. Not sure if they milled the head down and actually pressure tested the head or damaged the gasket on install.
caseman-d
 
I have experienced this problem. I find it necessary to thoroughly clean the o-ring grooves of rust chunks that have collected in the groove above the old o-ring. A thorough cleaning can expose rust pits in the groove where the o-ring needs to seal. I coat the o-ring groove with a non hardening gasket sealer just before inserting the o-ring and the sleeve.

As suggested, pull the side covers and inspect. Determine if the drip is from the inside of the sleeve or the outside. If on the inside, this tends to mean a leaky head gasket or cracked head. The outside of the sleeve typically means the o-ring is not sealing. If the leak is coming down thru push rod holes, that may be from a head gasket leak or a crack.

Stuffing cardboard under the crankshaft can help pinpoint where the leak is coming from.

I have had some success using Bars Leak to stop o-ring leaks. Stop leaks need dry air at the exterior of the leak to work. After circulating and mixing the stop leak, I pulled the side plates so dry air could circulate better thru the crankcase. The air in my shop is generally clean. I left the covers off for about 2 weeks and blew air at the cover holes with a small fan during the day. The slow drip onto the cardboard eventually stopped.
 
You DO NOT lube the orings before installing Them, they are installed Dry then lubed just before putting the sleeve in or they can and will Roll and then leak,, may not be his problem but very important to install them properly to avoid rolling and pinching them,, seen this done way too many times over the years
 
That's a lot of leakage. I'm not sure what brand I used. It was probably Bars Leak brand. The type I used worked with water. Had to remove the antifreeze, treat it, and them put the antifreeze back.
 
That sounds like more of a leak than stop leak would fix. Do the access panel inspection as others have suggested and go from there. At 6oz per day you ought to be able to see the drip. Wish you well. gobble
 
Did he check the block for cracks when the sleeves were out?

My DO had a hairline crack in the wall between coolant and the push rods. It didn't leak when I first got the tractor, but after several oil changes it got pretty bad.

Good luck.
 

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