1070 hydraulic valves

I need to go through the lift arm and scv service valveson a 1070 case. Can I get tothese from the operater station under the seat? Or do I need to remove fuel tank and/or cab? The lift arms bleed off and it has some scv issues as well.
 
the remote valve requires you to pull the fuel tank,, unscrew the fittings from the bottom on the fuel tank before trying to remove,, power wash all the dirt you can from around the tank first as well, the DOM (3pt) valve can be accessed through the floor plate
cnt
 
OK I had a case owner say that he actually removed and reinstalled a reman remote valve from under the seat on his 970, but maybe he removed the tank and forgot that part. I just filled the tank! How bout the rockshaft piston packing? tank as well?
 
It is posible to remove and reinstall the remote valve without removeing the tank,l BUT it takes a comgloration of flex extensions on a 1/2" drive ratchet and two people to get it done.
Loren
 
OK, Well sounds like my type of project, wobble sockets, wobble extensions, universal joints, magnetic sockets, half moon wrenches, sounds like my type of fun. Thanks. It needs done. I will probably try it, not because the fueltank is am issue, but I just filled it and have no place to go with the red fuel. Sometimes it would be handy to do have clear diesel and put it in a truck. How about axle bearings? ever need done? seal is leaking pretty bad and I suspect from my previous mechanical expertise that the axle bearings have possibly gotten loose and caused the seal to go out.
 
OH, Well they need done then!!! You need to see this tractor, new motor new powershift, (power shift had been done atleast once before indicated by NON oem parts found upon teardown, brakes worn clear down, front end was rebuilt, then I rebuilt it again, reason I know it was second rebuild was it had one bearing installed upside down, pto clutch, shift linkages worn plumb out, reman hyd. pump, and tach shows 2000, (that was since engine overhaul) Judging from the wear I see, I have not ever seen a genuine verified 10000 hour tractor, but plenty of 8000-9000 and this thing is well past that in terms of worn levers, worn linkages, I would guessover 10000 hrs, but no way to know. How can I tell if bearings need addressed?
 
if it was mine, I would pull the pto and adjust them first,, I use a bar to pry on the bull gears a few ways to see if they have slack, maybe others have a different way but that's how I check, to be honest I have never had to change a axle bearing on a 770-1070 to date
cnt
 
Well good to know. I will just remove weights and wheels and pop new seal in, and see if it leaks again. You are the expert, Im just along for the ride. Sounds like almost less work than just pulling final drive. Thanks.
 
before you pull the seal lift on the end of tha axle and have someone watch the seal area, if you can see the axle moving the seal lip you for sure need to adjust the axle bearings,,, also look the seal over and see if one side is worn from possible axle movement, after the hours and wear you describe she sounds to have been run hard,,,
cnt
 
Well, run hard and run a lot. It is still a workhorse, definitelyworth fixing, but seems like lots and lots of hours.
 

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