Case 930CK (941)

CoryBTex

Member
I need a little help last fall I purchased a 1969 930CK (941) it runs on propane. This week is the first time I have really used it hard before this it was just running a brush hog. This week I was going to use it to run a round baler but before I could make one pass around the field I noticed it was struggling under the load, and it backfired and blew the breather apart. At that point I switched to our 4020. After putting that back it ran fine not under a load. I have begun trying to check the timing and the settings on the carb. Question one one the timing I found two setts of marks on the crank pulls. One had three marks close together the other had several hash marks and 35 on one end of the marks and 20 one the other. Which one of these set of marks is correct one to use right now ti is set half way between the long set of marks with the numbers on it. The other problem is the carb described in my manual is not at all what is on my tractor. Mine has an Impco model 100. Can anybody tell me is this the correct carb for this tractor. It only has one adjustment it says for idle. But I took that screw completely out wile,the tractor was running and it made very little difference in the sound of the engine. If some this is not the correct carb can some one please tell me which one is. If this is the correct one can someone please tell me how to set it correctly. Any pics of your 930Lp system would be great.
 
I worked very little on LP's two places can be causing you grief that I see at this point, either it a ign problem,, bad coil points cond ect or you are short on fuel,, have you changed the LP filter yet? as for the timing,, that does not change after setting,,, I mean it will run the same if the timings off, it does not get better or worse by its self,, unless the distributor is loose and moving I guess my two cents good luck
cnt
 
forgot to add are you running on liquid fuel when working it? we only used vapor to start and warm up then always switched to liquid
cnt
 
I'm not sure I have a fuel filter the fuel line comes from the tank to a round flat device that looks similar to the regulator then out of that to what I
would call the regulator (or vaporizer it is larger and circulates engine coolant though it) so is the first thing it goes though some sort of filter. It
does not look like the filter in my manual.
 
I'm not sure I have a fuel filter the fuel line comes from the tank to a round flat device that looks similar to the regulator then out of that to what I would call the regulator (or vaporizer it is larger and circulates engine coolant though it) so is the first thing it goes though some sort of filter. It does not look like the filter in my manual.
 
Well this one is not a typical canister type I will post a photo later to see if anybody can identify it. I also would like to find out if this,is a factory unit or if someone has changed it from gas to LP.
 
I have a 930 LP and start on vapor and switch to liquid. Two valves....one says vapor and one says liquid....after it is running, close the vapor valve and turn on the liquid valve. What do you mean when you say you have the liquid hooked up now? Someone hack the valving up and it is not factory??? Mine pulls great and never gives a problem....even at -20 in the winter.
 
When I got the tractor only the vapor valve had a line connected to it so I added a "T" and connected the liquid valve so I could run the tractor off of liquid after it had warmed the engine up. All this trouble was before I had the liquid valve connected. I have ran the tractor once pulling a 12 foot swather while running on liquid. I believe it was running better but the engine still did not sound smooth. That's the reason I was wanting to check the adjustment on the timing and carb. I have had the distributor apart and cleaned the point and reset the gap. However there are two sets of hash marks on the crank pulley so I'm not sure which ones are correct. Also the carb my tractor has and the one in the manual are different. The one on my tractor only has on screw for adjustment, it is for the idel and it seems to have little to no affect. Also my carb has no choke as described in the manual. Also I do not have the filter canister as in my manual. If I could get some pics of your system that would help me determine if mine is factory or if I have someone else's mess. Thanks for y'alls help
 
I have a 1969 930 gas that was converted to propane using a century conversion kit. Without pictures I am wondering if your
tractor isn't a converted gas.

If my propane were doing this I would Check the points for the proper gap, first. Then i would check rotor and distributor cap.
Then I would go to the felt fuel filter in the solenoid shut-off valve.
 
I have checked the points rotor and cap. I am not sure about this felt fuel filter,you are talking about. Is it located in a round flat case just before the regulator. Does your tractor have a Impco model 100 carburetor.
 
your tractor if it came from the factory with propane would have had Ensign carb and vaporizer. it also would have a choke as pictured in the book. it could have been switched to Impco because parts are not available for Ensign any more. your vaporizer should have the Impco name on it to match the carb. you should not need the choke with an Impco carb. the liquid valve is tee'd into the gas line at the tank. the tractor should be started on vapor. they tend to run a little better on vapor unless you are pulling hard or running in cold weather. if the filter is a canister it should have Ensign on it and filters are available. if it is flat it may be an Impco. i would have to see it. the idle screw on a Impco carb only works at low idle. it does't do anything for load. I have both Ensign and Impco and the Impco are the best starting and performing. your ignition has to be top shape and no vacuum leaks for propane.
 
My tractor uses a century carb and my filter maybe different.

SO.......

I decided to go to my parts book and find a number for you so you can look up your filter with a picture.

If your tractor is factory LP your filter number should be A24616. A little search discovered the number was superseded by A24540. The parts is available for $13.78. I do not know if the filter gasket is included or not. My old parts book shows an A24539 for the gasket. My sure that number is superseded as well. A search at the provided link may help you get what you need.

http://messicks.com/part/a24540/filter-cartridge
 
(quoted from post at 01:40:48 08/31/16) Here are pics of my setup
39858.jpg
39859.jpg
39860.jpg
39861.jpg
39863.jpg
 
you have an all Impco system. the filter is the round part with the ten screws. it is also the vacuum shut off. the fuel is off until you crank the engine. vacuum from the line going to the intake manifold
opens the shutoff and holds it open while the engine is running. when engine is off no vacuum and fuel is shutoff. with the fuel pressure bled off you can remove the ten screws and lockoff cover. inside is a
metal screen and flat cotton filter. you can shake the filter out and any rust will fall out. you can reinstall the filter. filters and repair kits are availble from any propane supplier. Impco has used these
vacuum lockoffs for years. On the carb where the fuel enters is the load adjustment. it is the knob above the the idle screw. It is simply a vane which controls the amount of fuel going in the carb. there
should be a r for rich and L for lean. this sets your full load adjustment. it is usually close to full open. on the opposite side of the vaporiser is a small button in the middle. This is the primer and when
you push it in it lets a small amount of fuel get to the carb. this is used in cold weather instead of a choke. The adjustments on this system only fine tunes it. This Impco system is still being made for all
sorts of engines and is one of the simplest there is. parts are very common.
 
(quoted from post at 03:51:32 08/30/16) I have a 1969 930 gas that was converted to propane using a century conversion kit. Without pictures I am wondering if your
tractor isn't a converted gas.

If my propane were doing this I would Check the points for the proper gap, first. Then i would check rotor and distributor cap.
Then I would go to the felt fuel filter in the solenoid shut-off valve.
When I checked the points I found there was oil in the bottom of the distributor. So I cleaned it out and found there was two different springs on the weights one was much heavier than the other. Also they where loose one the weights. Is this normal for this tractor thanks for your help
 
Is there sideways play on the distributor shaft?

I'm talking about removing the distributor cap and removing the rotor and wiggling the distributor shaft.

[I had a tractor that had a worn distributor shaft bushing and under load the point gap was changing with the tractor running. I had no power under a load]
 
Ok new question my tractor seems to be running much better but today I ran it for about 5.5 to 6 hours and used 60%of my fuel this seems to be a little excessive to me. I was running at full throttle pulling a 12 foot swather. How does this compare to your 930. Also do you have any experience with the Petronics conversion to eliminate the point on one of these. I have used them before on small ford tractors and they are great. Thanks for the advice.
 
Unfortunately, fuel usage sucks on most LP tractors. I used 70 Gallons of propane planting 50 acres with a six row planter. A diesel would have used about 30 gallons of fuel. My son put the electronic unit on a 830 gas dist. and has good luck with it. My 930 is original point set-up and I have good luck with it.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top