What to try next?

Lyle Knight · Jul 30, 2016

This spring I bought a 930CK diesel. When I first tried to work it, it overheated. With some advise from this forum, I checked heads, seem ok, drained old coolant that was extremely rusty and flushed the radiator, installed new hoses, new cap, and thermostats. Here is the issue, rather than put new antifreeze in right away, I have been running straight water for about 10 hours use, then draining, flushing and refilling and repeating to get all rust out. The tractor runs about 195* on a warm day. Today I worked some summer fallow about 85* air temp, tractor ran about 200* on water. Drained water and it looked clean. I let the engine cool and topped off with 50/50 antifreeze and water. Went back out to dig and within an hour the tractor was 220-225* and pushing coolant out the cap. Why would it over heat with the antifreeze in it? Could the water pump be weak and unable to move the heavier antifreeze mix properly?

oldproudvet · Jul 30, 2016

Just one point: Water will always cool better than an antifreeze mix and with a marginal cooling system it will run hot. There is an issue (s) someplace. Is the cap good, you need that minor pressurization, is the fan shrouded? Because of belt hassles you see that discarded in many cases. Lots more to think on, dinner is calling others will chime in for sure and I'll add a bit more later.

Lyle Knight · Jul 30, 2016

New cap and radiator shrouds in place!

Lpakiz Larry · Jul 30, 2016

A glazed belt, tho tight, can still slip enough to cause problems. Your fan should buzz or roar when you rev the motor to max RPMs.

Brokengun · Jul 30, 2016

If the belts are ok and the fan is the 6 blade fan it leaves the radiator, thermostat's and water pump. One of my 930 CK had a plugged radiator it circulated but not well enough to keep the tractor at a reasonable operating temperature. I replaced the radiator and problem solved.

So is this were my tractor I would check or replace the thermostats. If that doesn't solve the problem back flush the radiator or have it cleaned by a radiator shop. When you drain the radiator look down inside of the radiator and shine a bright light and see if there is a bunch gunk of plugging off the tubes.

There is a small chance the water pump impeller is damaged.

fastfarmall · Jul 31, 2016

I would take it too, a Radiator shop, Over the years a lot of sealant's have plugged the top of it,if it is, a decision can be made then.

John Saeli · Jul 31, 2016

Lyle: How were the heads checked? Pulled off & sent to a shop? Otherwise, fill the rad clear up into the neck & start the engine. If the coolant pushes out with a lot of bubbles, that's a bad sign. If it simply pushes out, it indicates a plugged rad. Like the others have said, only a professional cleaning at a shop will do the job. As for the T'stats, I'd get 160's and drill a bypass hole in each of them.

700KK · Jul 31, 2016

Sounds like the radiator cores are plugged up.

Lpakiz Larry · Aug 1, 2016

i should have also mentioned the possibility of the radiator being plugged up externally. Easy way to check this is to put a trouble light in behind the radiator, next to the fan blades.
You might need to remove the grill, but then look into the radiator core from the front. If you can't see light, you might need to carefully (pressure) wash out the radiator.
If the radiator is fairly clean, you won't have any problem seeing the trouble light.

What to try next?

Lyle Knight

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oldproudvet

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Lyle Knight

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Lpakiz Larry

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Brokengun

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fastfarmall

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John Saeli

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700KK

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Lpakiz Larry

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