The hitch worked fine when I took my saw rig off but now with my carrier on it does not go up or down.(quoted from post at 17:10:31 07/21/16) The pump is designed to hold some oil in the body so it is basically self priming provided the suction piping is tight and there will be residual oil in the piping. Any air will work out by operating the system
How do you mean it stopped working? Air in the system due to a non-tight suction piping or very low oil level in the torque tube will definitely affect the lift due to aeration of the oil. If the milky oil is due to emulsification, lift will be somewhat erratic but the back pressure will be elevated and will probably blow a large hole in your oil filter causing debris in the sump that can be picked up by the pump and get lodged in the control valve.
Joe
Joe, I think I found a problem! I pulled the drain plug...a couple drops of water, dug around with a screwdriver and broke the dam! I don't think this has been touched since it was new. Drained most of the fluid then went after the filter, as i removed the last bolt the cover popped off because of the spring and the filter stayed in. The filter seemed enlarged and wouldn't come out of the hole. Needless to say I need a new filter. Do you know where I can purchase/part #?(quoted from post at 18:34:08 07/21/16) The first thing to do is check/clean the return filter and change oil. Let us know if the filter is intact. If it doesn't move at all, either there is no pump pressure or there is a problem in one of the valves.
It is also possible that the O-rings on the piston have completely blown. To check that pull the tubing loose on the vent/leakoff. Let any residual oil in the rockshaft housing drain then operate the hitch, check amount of oil draining. A few small drips is normal, won't prevent the hitch from operating but may drift down with load.
Joe
Glen,(quoted from post at 14:43:49 07/22/16) Hopefully your problem is that simply solved. While my VAC-14
hydraulic system worked fine I thought I'd change the oil &
filter just for good maintenance. I found the same things you
did: a big slug of dirt blocking off the drain hole and an
expanded filter that came out in pieces.
Best of luck.
Glenn F.
(quoted from post at 18:11:41 07/22/16) Forgot to ask, the interior of the filter element is the inlet from the return system should trap the harmful particulates. What was in your element, sludge? metal particles? The element is intact?
Joe
(quoted from post at 19:57:30 07/22/16) No parts or gaskets yet. If you have to pull the piston you can make that gasket out of 1/32" bulk material from an auto parts store near you. If the piston seals leak we are going to pull the piston to ensure it is factory 1952 and later 2 O-rings as opposed to the prior piston factory to mid 1951 that used a leather cup seal.
The element not being intact is not good news. Fish out all the element material that you can. Put it together, try to determine how much is missing. The bad thing is the pump pickup has no strainer and a chunk of the element can get lodged in the pickup pipe and starve the pump. Little pieces that can get by the pump are large enough to get stuck in the control valve preventing it from closing enough to provide adequate pressure to the piston.
Check the oil you drained for element pieces and anything that shouldn't be in there. I check oil like that by placing an old white tee shirt in a large strainer and strain the oil through it into a pail.
Joe
(quoted from post at 20:15:32 07/26/16)
I haven't forgotten Ed, have some unscheduled time consuming events pop up that I simply have to address. I am pretty well strung out tonight, just a short post and more tomorrow night if no more surprises.
We are going to have to check out the pump or depth control unit valves next.
The pumps are pretty robust, seldom require repair unless it is run dry. The woodruff keys on the drive gear and pumping drive gear can wear and shear, many hours run time and poor oil condition. Other replaceable parts are bearings and the shaft seal. Pumping gears are mated pairs and when worn along with housing wear should be replaced by another pump rather than repair attempt. Failed shaft seal may suck in air while running and will dump some hydraulic oil into the engine crankcase when stopped. An indication of a failed seal is having to make up oil in the torque tube without any visible external leaks, does this apply to your tractor?
Pic 2 is the pump pressure test procedure. It is only valid if the rest of the system is operational and the hitch can be raised to the upper limit to force the relief valve open. So we need to check out the depth control unit next.
I assume you have the basic factory Eagle hitch hydraulic system like pic 3. No add-on factory remote cylinder control valve or selector valve that someone has piped into the system, correct? Your hitch vent/leak-off tubing Probably enters the torque tube casting under the right step plate rather than going to the breather. Check the circled tube nuts tight and let me know if they were loose.
If you have any weight on the hitch, please take it off if convenient and try to cycle the winch, let me know if any motion. Listen to the hydraulic tubing with a screwdriver to your ear see if you can detect any flow.
That's all for tonight.
Joe
(quoted from post at 14:40:43 07/27/16) Pump bog and some oil mix, very good observation. Lets see if we can run with that.
Pic 1 is the piston assembly. Lifting and lowering the draft arms by hand will check the entire mechanical end for obstruction, all linkage should move freely all the way up to the piston. The piston will remain in place at the top of the cylinder. The end of the connecting rod nestles in the piston socket, it is not attached. When you lift the draft arms by hand, the connecting rod will slide out of the piston and down the cylinder. Do not drop the draft arms free fall, rod end can strike the piston skirt with enough force to knock a chunk out. There is no way to determine if the piston is stuck in the cylinder at this point but it is very hard to believe that a system capable of ~800 psi is unable to move it unless the oil pressure is not getting there.
Pic 2 is a simple drawing of the system in neutral.
Pic 3 is the draft control unit in the lever neutral position. In neutral the pump oil is circulated directly back to the torque tube via neutral position of the control valve. With the bypass open there is not enough pressure to overcome the lift check valve spring. That red line is the oil flow path.
Pic 4 is the draft control unit in the lever raise position. The control valve has closed off the bypass to the torque tube. The pump pressure is directed to the piston via the lift check valve. Since you can hear the pump bog down indicates an obstruction in the control valve, the lift check valve, or unit passages including the tubing to the piston. There is some possibility that pressure is being bleed off through faulty relief/release valves but that is not consistent with the pump bog. I have never run in to anything like this but I would think it would be in the control valve or the lift check valve. The lift check valve is the most accessible, it is under the plug on the bottom of the draft control unit block. I saw considerable rust when I pulled one on a tractor that had sat for years. Pull the ball and spring and see if you can see anything in the passage. Personally I would roll the engine and try to blow some oil out but consider the mess, might not be worth it.
Joe
(quoted from post at 18:14:34 07/27/16) OK, the problem is mechanical. Draft control unit, hydraulic system is not involved. There should not be any oil on the piton, to check/drain put the lever in the down position engine not running, opening the release valve.
Right now you've moved the draft arms just about the right distance for the connecting rod to pull below the piston and is now hung on the skirt preventing the arms from dropping. Normally you would shake the draft arms up and down to get the rod past the skirt and back seated in the piston socket.
Normally the draft arms can be lifted full up with one hand and back down by gravity with some hand braking to prevent free fall. When you cycle the draft arms like that all the linkage, shaft, conn rod move through their normal up/down cycle. Something is binding, broken, or out of position causing the mechanical seizure. Can you see any external mechanical linkage that has broken or appears to be seized?
Later tonight I will review the mechanical parts exploded view and try to figure out what to disconnect to isolate the problem. Off hand, if the problem is not external, I am thinking conn rod but I just can't see how it could come loose. Another thought is the harden surfaces in the rock shaft housing that is used as bearing surfaces for the rock shaft. If you haven't already done so, grease those 4 zerks on the back of the rock shaft housing.
Anyone else here have any ideas, jump in, the more views the better.
Joe
(quoted from post at 09:04:36 07/31/16) Use a block of wood and a BFH tap the piston back up into the cylinder. Clean up the cylinder wall and lube. Also try to get some lube up between the piston and the cylinder wall. The lube may help prevent/reduce scoring of the cylinder.
A puff of compressed air to hydraulic fitting is usually the method of blowing the piston out of the cylinder. Be very careful, the piston can exit with a lot of velocity and force. To be safe it is a good idea to turn the hydraulic fitting ccw 180 degs so it points to the top of cylinder and tie a cloth bag around the cylinder flange to catch the piston as it exits the cylinder.
Your last post stated the draft arms were seized in the down position. Piston stuck in bottom of cylinder indicates they got stuck with the arms in the up position at some point. What happened there?
Joe
(quoted from post at 16:00:54 08/01/16)
Thanks for the info Barry I plan to be real careful Not sure I have the hydraulic capabilities but I can pump air by hand.
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