Lubricants in a C Case

I have had my CC3 Case in the shop too long and need to change lubricants before I start it up. I would appreciate if someone can tell me what weight of oil should be used in the motor and transmission/ fianl drive. I thought I had an operator's manual for it but can't find one. I am sure you guys will know what to use. Thank You for your help.

I would use 10w30 in the engine and 90weight in the transmission.

I have SAE 30 in my engine, and 90 wt in the transmission. I, also, keep a bottle of SAE 30, and put the nozzle from an empty 90 wt bottle, and use it to oil the valve train. Works great!

Dumb question:
A multi-weight oil like 10W-30 should make the engine a little easier to hand start cold than if 30wt was used?

I use heavy duty NON-DETERGENT 30w in all my antique tractors. I figure that detergent oil tend to loosen the 70 years of crud that tightly clings to places that never have been cleaned in a cleaning tank as in a rebuild shop.

Detergent dissolves some crud but just loosens some and it becomes like cholesterol in the life blood of the engine.

Dad had a 38 C Case. In the dead of winter it had chore duties that did not work the engine very hard. We then used 10w. That was before 10w-30 and high detergent oils.

The old C would fire and run on the 3rd pull of the crank if the choke was on regardless of the thickness of the oil. We thought the thin oil would lube better and it did crank easier. I was a runt of a kid and easier was good.

We sometimes harvested in the fall when the temp was COLD. We left the 30w in it then because harvesting worked the engine harder than doing chores.

Using non-detergent oil in any engine is a form of engine abuse. Never heard of "heavy duty" non-detergent oil.

don't forget the little plug at clutch housing,it holds about 2 pints of engine oil that don't get to drain when you drain the crankcase

Yep the polymers are going to move easier in 10w-30 when cold. over a straight 30.

WGM and others,

I get my straight 30w HEAVY DUTY non-detergent oil for FS. It is labeled as heavy duty but it is non-detergent. I also get 15w-40 from FS. It is labeled super heavy duty and has detergents.

Most lubricants start as a base oil and get additives mixed in. Most additives make the base oil a better lubricant (heavy duty). A few additives are cleaners (detergents). A heavy duty non-detergent has most of the better lube additives but not the cleaning additives.

The need for cleaners (detergents) in oils came mainly from the increase in cylinder pressures over the years from higher compression ratios, turbocharging, etc. These higher cylinder pressure create several forms of tiny particles called NOX. General speaking, older engines, that could run on 87 octane or less, did not create NOX.

Some forms of NOX are sticky and create gums. Other form of NOX are acidic but do not stick. The sticky NOX gums up surfaces. The acidic NOX pollutes the atmosphere. Detergents loosen and dissolve gums.

Gums also have forms other than NOX. Old engines created gum from poorly burning the fuel; creating a sooty substance that would cling to surfaces and become films. Sooty gum has lubricating qualities so tends to not be a problem in engines IF IT DOES NOT CHUNK OFF AND CIRCULATE. NOX gum has no lubricating qualities and needs to be dealt with by "detergents".

Old engines have collected films of hard soot that tend to stick tight and remain in place for years. Adding detergent to your antique tractor is apt to chunk off hard soot and plug oil passages.

Well DUH, what or where is an "FS"?