Case 311B help

rburli

New User
A little background. My Great Uncle purchased a Case 311B in 1958, when he passed away it went to my uncle. This little tractor is the first piece of motorized piece of equipment I learned how to drive. Spent many hours raking hay and doing chores around my uncle's farm. Fast forward, my uncle passed away last fall. My Aunt has been gracious enough to let me have the tractor. I got it home. Cleaned the dirt off of it and now am beginning the task of restoring the 311B. I have run into a couple issues from the beginning. While the tractor is a 6 volt positive ground unit. There is a 12 volt regulator on it which is causing me to scratch my head. Also in an attempt to get it to run. I have removed the wiring harness and reinstalled. One wire at a time. What has now become the China Syndrome. Everytime I go to start the unit. I end up firing the wire between the amp meter and the starter solenoid. I'm not an expert mechanic, so look for more questions from me as time goes on.

Thank you
Bobby
 
If you're frying the wire to the solenoid, you've connected wrong. The solenoid will have a large stud that the battery cable
hooks to, and then a smaller stud with a wire coming from the ignition key switch. In that harness section on the right side of
the engine will be another 14 ga wire going to the ignition coil, again from the ignition switch. For the amp meter, you have 3
wires off one side, going to the voltage reg, the ignition switch and the light switch. The other side of the switch carries the
current to the starter solenoid where it connects to the large cable from the battery. This is the path of the current coming from
the generator thru the reg thru the amp meter to the battery, by way of the solenoid connection. I do not have a flat bead scanner
at the moment to scan out of my owner's manual.
 
Not sure why you have a 6v battery. My '59 310B is 12 volt all the way. Positive ground, and while mine is classified utility
and yours general purpose I feel it should be 12 volt. My owners manual dated Sep '58 for the 300B and 400B wheel tractors calls
for 12 volt batteries in everything. A diesel would have 2 6 volts cabled for 12 volts
 

Thanks, I'll check the wiring again. I'm confused as well about the battery, but when I picked up the tractor, she had the 6 volt battery in her.

Appreciate your help and patience
 
I'll do the scanning for you Vet. First pic from 300B 400B operators manual. Second pic from 300B 400B service manual.

Joe
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To be a little more precise, the 300B series could have an AutoLite or a Delco electrical system. I've only seen the Delco on the 310B utility model but I suppose it could be on you 311B model also. In any event both are factory 12V, pos gnd. Two 6V batteries in series for the diesel as Vet advised.

Joe
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(quoted from post at 21:58:23 07/08/16) To be a little more precise, the 300B series could have an AutoLite or a Delco electrical system. I've only seen the Delco on the 310B utility model but I suppose it could be on you 311B model also. In any event both are factory 12V, pos gnd. Two 6V batteries in series for the diesel as Vet advised.

Joe
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Is there a more clear wiring diagram available? One that is possibly color coded showing which wire goes to which location?
 
Likely not. I have all 3 original manuals for my '59 611B, the wiring diagrams all look identical to the ones already posted. I know it's not much help now, but you should have taken pictures before you tore it down. The good news is that these systems are extremely simple and should be very easy to troubleshoot. To start with, the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter should be a 10 ga wire running from the same stud as the battery cable up to the ammeter with nothing else connected to that ammeter stud. It's the main power from the battery to everything else.
 
(quoted from post at 19:59:02 08/31/18) Likely not. I have all 3 original manuals for my '59 611B, the wiring diagrams all look identical to the ones already posted. I know it's not much help now, but you should have taken pictures before you tore it down. The good news is that these systems are extremely simple and should be very easy to troubleshoot. To start with, the wire from the solenoid to the ammeter should be a 10 ga wire running from the same stud as the battery cable up to the ammeter with nothing else connected to that ammeter stud. It's the main power from the battery to everything else.
 

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