70's model Case 580C Swing Cylinder Replacement

Reelle

New User
I have a leaky swing cylinder on a Case 580C that I need to repack. Does any one have an suggestions on how to remove the pin that holds the
rod? I"ve soaked it day after day in penetrating oil, banged it with a rod and sledge hammer, used a bottle jack to push up under it, but I
can"t get the thing to budge.
 
(quoted from post at 20:17:36 06/22/16) I have a leaky swing cylinder on a Case 580C that I need to repack. Does any one have an suggestions on how to remove the pin that holds the
rod? I"ve soaked it day after day in penetrating oil, banged it with a rod and sledge hammer, used a bottle jack to push up under it, but I
can"t get the thing to budge.
 
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These pin punches are made to drive interference fit steel and Titanium fasteners as well as rivets out of aircraft If you cant get it out with this setup I don't know. The punch is called a rivet pin punch comes in sizes 3/32 up to 3/8 the top example would be best and can be cut down to create a 1/2 pin punch the pin punch should be about 12 dollars on line or at your local aircraft supply. The other picture shows a Medium Barrel Air Impact Hammer at harbor freight that is 14 dollars or you may try to find one at your local pawn shop it should be enough power to get it out but power needed rated at 3x 4x 5x (5x being the most powerful of the examples I have given you). All depends on the diameter and the length of the pin your taking out. a large diameter say 3/4 inch by 4 inch long pin would require a 4x or 5x rivet gun as pictured below. Also the shorter the pin punch the more the power is transferred to the pin being removed. Note below that it says 4x upside down on the side of the barrel. Best of luck Byron

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In my experience in the Class 8 truck repair business, I have found that there is a tremendous difference in "zip" guns. The very best are from Snap-
on, with Mac coming in second. The cheaper Chicago Pnuematics and others can be run with one hand. On the Mac, better hang on with
both. And with a Snap-On, I always used heavy leather welding gloves because they hit so hard and jar your hands so hard that they hurt.

Another factor to consider is the phenominum of metal expanding. If you start out with a lesser-powered gun, your metal pin can be expanded
or swelled to such a degree that nothing can push it out. On a tough pin, the hardest hitting gun will be your best and only pick.
Can you borrow a good one from someone?
Oh, and wear eye protection because flying metal particles need a doctor to get out of your eye or skin.
 
I am having trouble uploading photos, I'm new to the site. I wanted to show you some images of what I am working with. The pin
I am trying to remove is huge, almost as big as that gun. This pin is about a foot long and holds the piston rod on the rear
swing cylinder
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(quoted from post at 02:50:20 06/24/16) Here are some images to better illustrate the pins I was referencing.

That is a much longer and bigger diameter fastener than what It looked like online! Just the length itself adds to the complexity and drag on the fastener when you try to remove it Let me say just looking at the pictures that are now posted you Really need someone who has done this job before or at a bare minimum has the Maintenance manual. If this is a slip fit bolt hole it should come out with some persuasion once there is no bind on the bolt. This to me looks like a problem where if there's any twist or pressure on that bolt from the boom or pressure in the cylinder itself it aint coming out no mater how much power you hit it with and as already noted these big guns like the Ingersol Rand AVC-36 (36X) can in fact swell the fastener inside the hole particularly if its in a bind.I strongly suggest that you wait for an EXPERT who has done this job before you do anything more. Fact is this is only speculation. I'm really sorry I cant help you with it but I'm glad you posted the pictures so maybe someone can Byron
 

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