Case DO questions

Hey guys, dad and I have pretty much all Oliver and IH stuff mixed in with JD, Silver King, 1 AC, and a 4600 and 5600 Ford. BUT, this is our first Case! We bought it last summer for $500, has new rear tires, so thats a plus. We have nothing against Case tractors, we just never see any around here. I don't know another person that has a Case around here aside from some of the bigger white and orange and tan and orange ones on the farms. Anyway, this is a real straight tractor, but was bought knowing it has/had a knock. Older guy owned it, and was using it at tractor pulls when in the middle of a pull it started knocking, he shut it off immediately. So I guess what I was wondering was, are engine parts hard to find? Rod bearings, main bearings, etc? Or are they poured bearings? I haven't been able to find much about them online. Do they really have a wet clutch? I did see that online somewhere. What are they, a 3 plow tractor, about like an M Farmall? Or don't they have enough tire? Pretty sure it will have to be split anyway and have the crank ground, but could the work actually be done through the access covers, if not? Or are they just for looking? And, I didn't check it out too much, but I believe those weights on the fenders are the front wheel weights for that tractor, or do they belong to something else? Now I need to get it moved inside and see whata happenin' in there, but that probably won't be for a while since we haven't even been able to start farming yet.

Ross

Hello Ross,

Thanks for saving that old DO. I'll take a stab at your questions. 1. Engine parts are still mostly available. John Saeli, who is on this site can set you up with what you need. 2.They are poured Babbitt bearings. If a rod is bad you'll have to get a replacement done. 3. It is a wet clutch, and very dependable. 4. My opinion is it is a 2 plow tractor in heavy ground and a 3 plow tractor in light soil. This also depends on whether it has been updated with 4' aluminum pistons, and what head it has. Not much ground clearance on a DO though. I know from experience. 5. The hand holes come in very handy for changing sleeves and pistons-if your crank is salvageable-and it sounds like it should be. Otherwise you may have to drop the pan. I have seen two instances when mechanics were able to emery a bad journal and take out some shims and they were good to go. 6. Can't help you with the weights. Have never seen weights on the front wheels of a D standard or DO series. Good Luck! Don

I have seen those weights in my magazine ads for the 300.

Sorry for the typo. It should be 4" aluminum pistons. The High Compression head is a 5505 casting number. With these parts it is definitely a "3 plow tractor". Don

If it is a rod bearing bad you should be able to pull the hand hole covers and tell which one is knocking. Rods can be removed through the hand hole covers if you take your time. Drop the piston down just enough to slide the wrist pin out while leaving the piston up in the bore. Job is MUCH easier if you drop the oil pan. Be careful to lower the piston just enough to get the wrist pin out. If you drop it out to far the rings will pop out and then you need to deal with them. Babbit bearings are very forgiving, but you need to check the journal for out of round. Might be a good idea to pull the pan and check the mains while you are at it. They get much more involved to fix "right". Let us know what you find. Rod bearings normally do not knock under load unless they are really BAD.

Yes, wet clutch. Clutch is lubricated by oil from the engine. There is a gasket between the bell housing and engine flange. You need to drain the bell housing when you change the oil. Will only have about a quart in it.

Interesting, thanks. Wouldn't have known that if you hadn't told me!

Ross

Well, I wasn't really ready to tear into it at all, but now you have me really wanting to pop a cover off and just take a look in there lol. Still have to wait till the crops are in (sigh)

Ross

Thanks for the info Don! The old boy that had it said it would pull real well for a tractor that small. I'll have to check out the head casting number and see what kind of pistons it has as well. I'll keep you guys updated, thanks for the info!

Ross

I'll have to look for a casting number on them next time I'm over at the other farm, thanks Connor

Ross

Where are you located RBoots?

I bought a D when I started farming and used it all the time on the manure spreader. Developed a knock. Pulled the rod and piston out the bottom and had Terry Harkin re-babbit it. Working thru the hand covers used a ring compressor and put it back in. I was probably 21 when I did that.....47 years ago.

If you determine which rod is knocking after taking the hand holes off, Remove some shims from each side of the rod and get it to a tight sliding fit on the crankshaft. If the journal has some slight roughness or babbitt on it, clean with fine emery cloth and wipe clean before trying to set the rod clearance. If no shims left, rub the rod cap on emery cloth and remove a little at a time checking it often. I have done these things and gotten much service out of old Case tractors, John Deere tractors and Model T engines.
Richard in NW SC

Central MI

Thanks Richard, I'll see what I have and where I need to go from there.

Ross

Dang. Would have swapped you my 16" case front wheel weights for those 300 weights.