Auxillary lighting issue on case 1070

I have a question on an issue with the auxiliary lighting on a case 1070. The previous owner has connected auxiliary flood lights on the front and back of the tractor for baling and now after making changes on the battery arrangement (going from one battery to two in series), the connector on the battery end of the power wire that runs from the battery to the switch on the set of lights on the aftermarket switch gets hot after it is hooked up for a short time. The other set that is connected into the factory rotary switch works with no apparent issues. Is it a ground issue or is the wire too small to support the lights connected to it? Shouldn't be, but is it too much now with the two batteries in series? If it can't be connected directly to the battery, where would be a good spot to get factory power? Help is greatly appreciated.
 
I can't believe you hooked 2 - 12V batteries in series. You would be making 24 volts. You would have blown all the bulbs. 2 - 6V batteries hooked in series to make 12V is a poor set up. 2 - 12V batteries hooked in parallel to make 12V is the best set up. Assuming you are still @ 12V, the heating issue could be too small wire. Running a wire direct from the battery to a switch is a fire waiting to happen.
 
John is right all around, minimum of 14 ga wire, and that will depend on the type of light. Halogens draw a lot of current, led's not so much. Lights should always incorporate a relay so full current does not pass thru the switch. The switch itself could be supplying the resistance you're encountering. The wire ends, many times your cheaper crimp on connectors, many times are not up the the current requirements. Any lighting upgrade should always include a relay
 
That's on me, I meant they are hooked in parallel to get more cranking amps, but still making 12 volts. Didn't check my post. It originally had one 12 volt battery and hardly no cranking amps when cold, so upgraded to the two in parallel to start easier when it gets cold. Sorry about that.
 
NO! With just an inline fuse all the power still needs to go through the switch. A 30 amp relay should not cost you more than $10 at any automotive store. Diagram to wire it is usually printed on the relay itself. You still need the fuse in the power wire. I have relays on all the lights, and AC compressors on all my tractors.
 
Thanks for the help. Since you mentioned relays, I do have another question for you. In an previously installed light circuit, they have a circuit breaker in the power wire from the battery to the switch, no fuse or relay. So with the circuit breaker in line, I assume it would replace the fuse, but does it still need a relay plus the circuit breaker or with the circuit breaker only is it wired correctly? Just thought I would ask for clarification, so I could fix that if need be while I was at it.
 

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