Case 1070 help with no clutch

I just bought a 1070 thats been sitting for about 15 years. When you depress the clutch to put it into gear the transmission just grinds like the clutch didn't disengage. Im not familiar with these tractors so any help would be appreciated.
 
mine is a power shift,, it also grinds somewhat occasionally when in extreme cold . but always grinds into range easily.. mite ought to change fluids and filters ,, what does the tranny fluid look like and or smell like???/// if its nasty , pull all the plugs and get that crud out of there, I Am Assuming You have Power shift,.if it is dual range I think you have far less to worry about ,, you simply have a stuck clutch plate ... for P/S... if you can not get it in to a range WHILE RUNNING ,, my thought would be to depress the clutch lever while in low range , have a helper arc the solenoid for startup and JUMP OUT OF THE WAY and see if running it thru the gears seems to free it up
 
I thin it has 2 ranges. Its hard to read anything anymore p=but I think the one lever closest to my right leg says powershift 1 2

How do I check the oil and fill it, maybe its just low. I see sight glasses on left side of tractor and on rear there is a dipstick looking thing with no dipstick, I assume you fill it there? Ive put in 3 or 4 gallons.
 
On the right side under the platform, in front of the tire... how many hydraulic filter canisters are there?
 
2 filters means it is a powershift, and as such really doesn't have normal a clutch as you would think of it.

When you push in the clutch pedal you should hear the engine "grunt" or surge about 1 second later. Does it grunt? After this grunt is when you can select one of the 4 range gears.
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:00 02/04/16) I just bought a 1070 thats been sitting for about 15 years. When you depress the clutch to put it into gear the transmission just grinds like the clutch didn't disengage. Im not familiar with these tractors so any help would be appreciated.


Remove the floor plate and work the clutch pedal and watch the clutch spool movement, it should go clear in and bottom in the valve body to engage the clutch and clear out as far as it will travel to disengage.

There is a stop bolt on the clutch pedal to keep from putting stress on the valve body from pedal over travel. It should be set so the stop bolt hits the firewall at the same time the spool comes out as far as it can.

If you should happen to have a 600 LB pressure gauge you can check C 2 port on top of the control valve. With the clutch depressed you should get 0 PSI and when pedal is up 180-210 LBS. You will have to adapt your gauge from 1/4 male pipe to get to 1/8 male pipe, I use a fairly long grease gun hose.

If that test comes out as described you have internal issues to contend to such as warped plates in C 2 powershift clutch.

You said there is a lever closest to your leg, that is the powershif lever and has 3 positions forward and one back.

As RG stated, the engine should surge when the pedal is depressed, that is the C 4 clutch engaging and that serves as a transmission brake to stop drum rotation on the RPS.
 
The engine doesn't grunt anytime.

Ill go out there and get the filters out. Hopefully I can get some new ones today and fill it up and try again.
 
(quoted from post at 15:22:38 02/05/16) I went to case ih dealer and got new filter but these dont have a check valve like the old filters do. Is that a issue?

You reuse the valves in the bottom of the filters.
 
They are made into the wix filter, you cant remove them. The CaseIH filter are wide open all the way through. I even
drove 30 miles back to the dealer to double check and they said that the correct filer.
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:11 02/05/16) They are made into the wix filter, you cant remove them. The CaseIH filter are wide open all the way through. I even
drove 30 miles back to the dealer to double check and they said that the correct filer.

Exactly what number wix are they made into? Not the 51786 and 51787 that are supposed to be in there... what I use(same as Napa Gold 1786, 1787).
 
RG, you are right, they just been in there 20 years and didnt want to come out. 2 parts guys at the CaseIH dealer and one mechanic there all told me the wix filters are a bunch of crap and they have the check valve to let oil pass by and their filters dont are better and dont need the check valve. What a bunch of clowns.
 
I do not use aftermarket transmission / hydraulic filters in the 70 and 90 series tractors. It's not worth it trying to save a few dollars. Engine oil, cab and air filters are Wix and if you buy them during filter days they discount them a lot. At least our distributor does.
 
I have had problems like this with tractors that set for a while and I have started them up while in gear and then lock the brakes and have broke the clutch loose.. I am not sure if the 1070 is a mechanical drive of converter type drive..
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:35 02/05/16) RG, you are right, they just been in there 20 years and didnt want to come out. 2 parts guys at the CaseIH dealer and one mechanic there all told me the wix filters are a bunch of crap and they have the check valve to let oil pass by and their filters dont are better and dont need the check valve. What a bunch of clowns.

Exactly why I get so infuriated when I go to the case dealer. Even the older guys here were IH guys and have little knowledge of Case.

Case doesn't make their own filters. They give the specs to manufacturers for bid, and buy them by the pallet from the low bidder. Same as all big manufacturers.

The parts guys couldn't be bothered to look in the parts books to confirm the bypass valves were case parts and not part of the filter :x :x :x :x :x
 
No the parts guy couldn't really seem to care less. I called first and asked about the filters and talked to a guy
who wasn't there when I got there. There was 2 filter out on the counter so the guy said it must be these. This guy
never bothered to double check. The mechanic really surprised me, if I brought the tractor it to have them do
everything he would have chucked those relief valves in the garbage.


I got new filters and about 12 gallons of fluid in it and it still wont "clutch" or whatever you call it. It doesnt
grunt either with the clutch in. It will grunt if I move the powershift lever. The trans pressure gauge came up to
the green area on the gauge. I had the clutch to the floor for a while and then moved it in and out for about 15
minutes.

I checked the linkage and everything is moving under there.
 
Pull the cover under your feet. Watch what valve the clutch pedal moves, use a pry bar to try to make it go just a little further than you can with the pedal. The linkage may have wear in it and the cab may have settled on its mounts preventing it from moving the valve the whole way.
 
It even moves backwards, who would have thought. Thanks for the help RG.

Now onto the 3pt and the PTO. The PTO always spins and the 3pt seems to have a mind of its own to when it wants to raise.
 

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