splitting a 511b

dhilbert

Member
Finally got some time to split my 511. It needs the seal between the triple range and the trans, hydraulic oil in the trans and rearend. It is not leaking from the 3 point cylinder. My question is, is this a straight forward split or are there any tricks I need to know about? I've never had one apart, especially with multiple clutches etc. Also there are a lot of metal filings and even some shavings in the bottom of the rearend, all the gears look good, good wear patterns, all shafts and bearings seem tight. Someone before me was inside this before as both trans and triple range covers are silicone sealed. Any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance, Dan
 
Before I would split the tractor, I'd replace the PTO shaft seal in the back side of the 4 SP housing. Can be replaced by removing the PTO unit, and it may be the culprit.
 
Concur with John & Klyde, PTO shaft seal is more likely to leak than the main shaft front seals and you don't need to split to change it.

Joe
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Dan,

I just replaced the rear seal on my 630 over the thanksgiving holiday. It's a relatively simple and straightforward project. You'll need to:

1. Drain the rearend.
2. Remove the PTO housing and pull the PTO shaft out aft.
3. Pry out or pull the seal G13802 from the seal housing G10338, without removing the housing if possible.
4. Inspect the bushing while you have the seal removed....
5. Install new seal (G13802 double lip seal is still available from Case).

A couple of notes...make sure the seal housing is securely fixed to the rear end of the main shaft. This is what was wrong with my 630. Whoever had mine apart last did not get the cup driven securely on the end of the shaft. It came loose, which meant there was no seal holding back hydraulic fluid.

Be careful re-inserting the PTO shaft through the seal so the start edged os the splines do cut the lips of the seal. (The spines section of the shaft is a smaller diameter than the seal, so the chance of a cut is not high, but bad things could happen if not careful. The darn seal expensive.....

The job is pretty easy and straightforward, but if you need a copy of that section of the service manual, let me know.
 
The second to last paragraph should read:

"Be careful re-inserting the PTO shaft through the seal so the [b:1855e2a5c9]sharp edges of[/b:1855e2a5c9] the splines do cut the lips of the seal. (The spines section of the shaft is a smaller diameter than the seal, so the chance of a cut is not high, but bad things could happen if not careful. The darn seal expensive..... "

Site owner - Can the editing capabilities be reinstated on this site?
 
Thanks guys I will give that a try first. Do I need to remove any top covers to do this job, the only cover I have off is the rearend.
 
CASE is freakin' ridiculous on that Seal, like they are on all their parts! We stock it in a Double Lip National for $6.00.
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:46 12/28/15) Thanks guys I will give that a try first. Do I need to remove any top covers to do this job, the only cover I have off is the rearend.

You need to pull the Eagle hitch rockshaft/piston assembly cover. The seal is located in the front of the differential section where the pto drive shaft exits the aft end of the transmission main drive shaft.

Joe
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(quoted from post at 09:58:05 12/28/15) CASE is freakin' ridiculous on that Seal, like they are on all their parts! We stock it in a Double Lip National for $6.00.

I should have given you a call last month John. I looked at all the normal seal/bearing suppliers locally and could not find anyone that carried a double-lipped seal like the one needed, so I relented and paid the piper... $6 beats the hell out of $40.
 
I guess before I go too far with this, I should ask does the 4 speed trans run in hydraulic oil or does it run in 80-90 with the rearend? I assumed it ran in 80-90 like my VAC, because when the rearend is over full (on the 511) it spills out the shift tower, and the hydraulic is low.
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:58 12/28/15) I guess before I go too far with this, I should ask does the 4 speed trans run in hydraulic oil or does it run in 80-90 with the rearend? I assumed it ran in 80-90 like my VAC, because when the rearend is over full (on the 511) it spills out the shift tower, and the hydraulic is low.

The 4-speed is part of the rear-end reservoir. Case called out gear lube for that reservoir.

The triple range is part of the hydraulic/torque tube reservoir.

That being said, some here use HyTran in both reservoirs.
 
(quoted from post at 21:55:58 12/28/15) I guess before I go too far with this, I should ask does the 4 speed trans run in hydraulic oil or does it run in 80-90 with the rearend? I assumed it ran in 80-90 like my VAC, because when the rearend is over full (on the 511) it spills out the shift tower, and the hydraulic is low.

Transmission and rear end are the same oil compartment. See the transmission dipstick in the above pic? It is the fill and level check for both. The original factory oil was SAE 90. 80-90 is fine.

Joe
 

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