David Brown/Case 990

Friend has this tractor that he bought about 5 years ago to use around his acreage. It has been repowered at some point with a GM straight six gasser. Any idea if this was a common thing to do? Wondering where the serial number is located, the clutch is gone,and I think the head gasket is gone based on the amount of coolant in the oil.
Looking at the tractor I was planning on pulling the motor right out to access the clutch, would this be the easiest?
Thanks
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I have no idea why someone would do that. The 4/49 engine is the best part of the tractor. The only repowers I have seen were some 1594 and 1690s that had Perkins transplants.

If I can find a cheap 4BT I might repower my 1494 with it.

Repowering a DB is not easy because of how the frame is part of the block.

The serial number tag would have been on the left side of the bell housing or on the tool box.

It will be stamped on top of the frame, either even with the fan, or even with the center of the engine.


Any chance of more pictures?
 
the "11081216" is your serial number.


As to the best way to the clutch, its anyone's guess not being able to see how the conversion was done.
 
Wow... engine swaps aren't easy to do right. Is the loader frame there to give the tractor rigidity without the engine frame? Judging by the radiator return hose and fitting(s) there may have been a cooling issue. The head and valve cover are different color than the engine... perhaps the head had trouble in the past? Again... perhaps heat? Putting a bigger engine in something is a recipe for problems... like the clutch, possibly the trans, perhaps the frame. The way the hood was modified may give you an idea of how well the job was done (or it may not).

I'd be rather cautious about this one; you could end up deeper in it than you expect pretty quickly.

Cheers

Ken in AZ
 
actually the loader is probably the only part of the tractor that is worth anything, we just took it off before bringing it home to work on it. The frame is straight and intact, no cracks or breaks anywhere, and the transmission was solid when it was running. Measured some items last night and looking at pictures it appears the clutch is correct for the tractor, so hopefully that is a easier fix. Going to put a new radiator in it and a proper governor. I know the engine has been overheated once or twice in recent history, so the head will come off, but the bottom end sounded good before the clutch went.
 

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