1964 Case 530CK Diesel Backhoe and Loader- HELP!

Just got this tractor. First tractor ever had with any hydraulics, first time with a diesel too... Ok- where to start.
Rough shape, but the thing I am most interested in getting answered has to do with making it move.
The guy we bought it from told us "she likes to have here fluids warmed up in the morning"-- during which time he sat on it with the tractor in the air via front loader and rear stabilizers; wheels spinning. This seemed odd at the time.
Basically, all hydraulics leak or have seepage- but all function properly.
The main problem is that after starting the engine, you can put the clutch down or you can shift- does not matter, since the clutch does not seem to engage-- no gears moving... Called the guy and he repeated himself about leaving it in gear, up in the air, and let the wheels spin...
After sitting for about 1 hour or more, the wheels DO begin to move, very slow and weak...
We've never taken enough time to let it warm for 3 or more hours-- just took off as soon as the wheels had enough power to move the machine (we've only had this for 2 days). I say "take off", but it is more like a weak crawl until it can build up its momentum. BUT- if you stop to do the work- you must let it warm itself up all over again to get the wheels moving (this cannot be right)--- and it never drives with power behind it... The engine however does run beautifully and sounds strong and great. It fires right up.
Once it is warm, the gears don't always seem to want to STOP spinning when you have the clutch in...tractor stops, but gears continue spinning (causing a grind, if you attempt to shift).
(sorry, know this is getting long)--- There is one lever for forward/neutral/reverse (hand-clutch), a foot-clutch, and another lever I believe to be the "range lever", and of course the "direct drive shifter"...
If we attempt to shift gears while the hand clutch is in any position but neutral while pushing the foot-clutch, it will grind.
If we take the hand clutch and put it in neutral, we can then shift gears but as stated above- if the gears continue to spin, then we cannot get hand-clutch back into forward or reverse. BUT, it appears that if you shift into direct drive, it helps- but does not always solve the problem.
In ending, the man we bought it from claimed he replaced the ring seals and clutch plate with all new.
HELP! and thank you.

Sounds like you are in WAY OVER YOUR HEAD. From your description the tractor has a converter drive in it. There is not a dry clutch. What you refer to as the clutch pedal is just a converter pressure dump valve/inching spool. Warm up for proper shifting and operation should be just a couple mins. The hand clutch that you refer to is NOT a clutch, just a simple mechanical reverser.
There are two gauges that monitor the converter drive. One labled converter pressure, the other converter temp. Sounds like you have little to no converter pressure, which can be caused by a number of things from bad charge pump to improperly connected control linkage, to the converter direct drive lockup clutches and feed passages being shot.
You mentioned that former owner said he replaced sealing rings and clutch discs. That to me sounds like he had the converter out of the tractor and failed to fix the problem he was trying to fix.
If you don't have the facilities and knowhow to fix this thing you are in deep dooo. A CASE service manual is a must, if you are ready to go inside the bowles of the tractor.
Sorry for the bad news, but I think you got snookered by the seller.
Loren

I know we (my brother and I) are in over our heads on this-- but, we've been there before with things... We have to try to fix it- cost enough. I don't know if the guy knew anything either when he tackled it-- but, I'm willing to wager that he knew he had not fixed it... We were referring to the service manual and operator's manual when we called them "clutches", that's what they are labeled in the diagrams.
Oh well. Could be a long winter ahead.
Any other tips or suggestions out there will be appreciated.
Thanks

The first thing I would do is determin if the tractor has any converter pressure. With inching spool out and engine running it should have about 200# ??? If it has pressure at this point, pull down on the direct drive control lever and see if pressure holds. If it drops off when in direct, the clutch pack or feed path from valve is leaking.
It doesn't sound like you have the correct manuals for it, or you are looking at the gear driven trans section, rather than converter drive.
You need to understand how the converter drive works to do any diagnosing.
Loren

When I worked for Case Power in the '70s it was common to see to see the 580's ,B's,680's
&780's up on stablizers with their wheels spinning, even when hot.

The converter / Case-o-matic system is shot and you've been had. Blunt but true. Sorry. We've bought a few just like that for salvage because they get too expensive to fix.