Just got this tractor. First tractor ever had with any hydraulics, first time with a diesel too... Ok- where to start.
Rough shape, but the thing I am most interested in getting answered has to do with making it move.
The guy we bought it from told us "she likes to have here fluids warmed up in the morning"-- during which time he sat on it with the tractor in the air via front loader and rear stabilizers; wheels spinning. This seemed odd at the time.
Basically, all hydraulics leak or have seepage- but all function properly.
The main problem is that after starting the engine, you can put the clutch down or you can shift- does not matter, since the clutch does not seem to engage-- no gears moving... Called the guy and he repeated himself about leaving it in gear, up in the air, and let the wheels spin...
After sitting for about 1 hour or more, the wheels DO begin to move, very slow and weak...
We've never taken enough time to let it warm for 3 or more hours-- just took off as soon as the wheels had enough power to move the machine (we've only had this for 2 days). I say "take off", but it is more like a weak crawl until it can build up its momentum. BUT- if you stop to do the work- you must let it warm itself up all over again to get the wheels moving (this cannot be right)--- and it never drives with power behind it... The engine however does run beautifully and sounds strong and great. It fires right up.
Once it is warm, the gears don't always seem to want to STOP spinning when you have the clutch in...tractor stops, but gears continue spinning (causing a grind, if you attempt to shift).
(sorry, know this is getting long)--- There is one lever for forward/neutral/reverse (hand-clutch), a foot-clutch, and another lever I believe to be the "range lever", and of course the "direct drive shifter"...
If we attempt to shift gears while the hand clutch is in any position but neutral while pushing the foot-clutch, it will grind.
If we take the hand clutch and put it in neutral, we can then shift gears but as stated above- if the gears continue to spin, then we cannot get hand-clutch back into forward or reverse. BUT, it appears that if you shift into direct drive, it helps- but does not always solve the problem.
In ending, the man we bought it from claimed he replaced the ring seals and clutch plate with all new.
HELP! and thank you.
Rough shape, but the thing I am most interested in getting answered has to do with making it move.
The guy we bought it from told us "she likes to have here fluids warmed up in the morning"-- during which time he sat on it with the tractor in the air via front loader and rear stabilizers; wheels spinning. This seemed odd at the time.
Basically, all hydraulics leak or have seepage- but all function properly.
The main problem is that after starting the engine, you can put the clutch down or you can shift- does not matter, since the clutch does not seem to engage-- no gears moving... Called the guy and he repeated himself about leaving it in gear, up in the air, and let the wheels spin...
After sitting for about 1 hour or more, the wheels DO begin to move, very slow and weak...
We've never taken enough time to let it warm for 3 or more hours-- just took off as soon as the wheels had enough power to move the machine (we've only had this for 2 days). I say "take off", but it is more like a weak crawl until it can build up its momentum. BUT- if you stop to do the work- you must let it warm itself up all over again to get the wheels moving (this cannot be right)--- and it never drives with power behind it... The engine however does run beautifully and sounds strong and great. It fires right up.
Once it is warm, the gears don't always seem to want to STOP spinning when you have the clutch in...tractor stops, but gears continue spinning (causing a grind, if you attempt to shift).
(sorry, know this is getting long)--- There is one lever for forward/neutral/reverse (hand-clutch), a foot-clutch, and another lever I believe to be the "range lever", and of course the "direct drive shifter"...
If we attempt to shift gears while the hand clutch is in any position but neutral while pushing the foot-clutch, it will grind.
If we take the hand clutch and put it in neutral, we can then shift gears but as stated above- if the gears continue to spin, then we cannot get hand-clutch back into forward or reverse. BUT, it appears that if you shift into direct drive, it helps- but does not always solve the problem.
In ending, the man we bought it from claimed he replaced the ring seals and clutch plate with all new.
HELP! and thank you.