carbuerator issue on a 56-57 case 320 backhoe

Hi i have a 320 case backhoe loader. Just finished an in frame rebuild of the engine had some oil pressure issues that i got help with from you guys. Now i have a carb issue. Seemslike the float either gets stuck or might need adjustment. Would it be worth my while to try and bend the float down a tad to see if it works. The carb is a rebuilt carb not the origional. So i could understand if it needs adjustment. Figured is ask incase someone has a procedure on it before going at it blind.
 
Make sure that the float is not dragging on the side of the bowl. Then with the carb upside down see how much in "drops" others here will tell you the exact measurement but it should be enough that the needle has dropped away from the seat. But not so much it wont close when the bowl is full of fuel.
 
(quoted from post at 09:03:30 11/29/15) Make sure that the float is not dragging on the side of the bowl. Then with the carb upside down see how much in "drops" others here will tell you the exact measurement but it should be enough that the needle has dropped away from the seat. But not so much it wont close when the bowl is full of fuel.
k. Ill check. I had it apart once and it worked till i started it and it flowed fuel then it didnt stop leaking. So im guessing its close but not quite there
 
You probably have a Marvel-Schebler TSX small bowl carb. With the top of the carb upside down, set floats 1/4" from gasket to nearest edge of the floats with the floats parallel to the gasket. If the needle and seat set is not new, it is a good idea to place them.

Joe
a206867.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:56 11/29/15) You probably have a Marvel-Schebler TSX small bowl carb. With the top of the carb upside down, set floats 1/4" from gasket to nearest edge of the floats with the floats parallel to the gasket. If the needle and seat set is not new, it is a good idea to place them.

Joe
a206867.jpg

If you have a viton needle with the soft tip do not put any pressure down on it forcing it against the seat, to do so can cut the viton surface and render it worthless, I agree that the float is probably bent so the bowls are dragging the carb bowl sides, viewed from back to front they should be perfectly vertical and 1/4 in as stated.
 
So i adjusted the float and made sure it wasnt rubbing on the side of the bowl. The tractor runs better and longer only had a little gas in it and ran out of that so not sure if it will continue to run. But still wont stop pouring fuel out when not running. Before it would run for like 3 to 5 min then starve for fuel and stall. This time i had it running for a good 7-10 min before i ran out of gas. I put more gas in it and put it away for today. Getting dark. Ill try again tomorrow
 
Also your picture shows a needle clip. Mine dosnt have one. Is it needed? My needle dosnt have a place for the clip to attach either
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:27 11/29/15)
(quoted from post at 14:25:56 11/29/15) You probably have a Marvel-Schebler TSX small bowl carb. With the top of the carb upside down, set floats 1/4" from gasket to nearest edge of the floats with the floats parallel to the gasket. If the needle and seat set is not new, it is a good idea to place them.

Joe
a206867.jpg

If you have a viton needle with the soft tip do not put any pressure down on it forcing it against the seat, to do so can cut the viton surface and render it worthless, I agree that the float is probably bent so the bowls are dragging the carb bowl sides, viewed from back to front they should be perfectly vertical and 1/4 in as stated.
think i read that last part a tad late. Might have messed up the needle. So my only other problem is the clutch. Its stuck pedal dosnt go down think its rusted. I have some water based rust eater should i try apraying that in there to break the rust up. I tried wacking the fly wheel /pressure plate with a drift. Probably try that a bit more. Any other tricks
 
(quoted from post at 13:59:27 11/29/15)
(quoted from post at 14:25:56 11/29/15) You probably have a Marvel-Schebler TSX small bowl carb. With the top of the carb upside down, set floats 1/4" from gasket to nearest edge of the floats with the floats parallel to the gasket. If the needle and seat set is not new, it is a good idea to place them.

Joe
a206867.jpg

If you have a viton needle with the soft tip do not put any pressure down on it forcing it against the seat, to do so can cut the viton surface and render it worthless, I agree that the float is probably bent so the bowls are dragging the carb bowl sides, viewed from back to front they should be perfectly vertical and 1/4 in as stated.
think i read that last part a tad late. Might have messed up the needle. So my only other problem is the clutch. Its stuck pedal dosnt go down think its rusted. I have some water based rust eater should i try apraying that in there to break the rust up. I tried wacking the fly wheel /pressure plate with a drift. Probably try that a bit more. Any other tricks
 
Not all needle/seat kits have the clip. The clip helps the needle respond to float movement when opening to admit fuel. In other words the needle open movement doesn't solely rely on fuel pressure in the line to push it open. If a clip came in the kit, use it. It's an upgrade in my opinion.

The needle with the viton tip is an upgrade, it is are also more easily damaged by debris in the fuel. The best course of action is to get a kit that includes the needle/seat, the hinge pin and the gasket. There will likely be other items in this minor kit but these are the most important for your present situation.

One of the problems with this type carb is low fuel head as in a gas tank that is at very low or running dry. Put at least 4-5 gals in your tank to check out the carb, get some head on the carb with no air in it. When you have used the tractor for awhile and the needle is seating then you can run the gas level down but not completely dry w/o the carb leaking.

I have a neighbor who tries to run his WD-45 with gas level just over the stand pipe, carb drips every time he shuts it off. I get it running for him every spring, I've given up on trying to change his gas problems.

Joe
 
ok makes sense. Ill fool with it after work tomorrowput the sight bowl back on the tank i took it off thinking that it was reatricting my fuel flow because it was from the lawn mower shop and thought it couldnt pass enough fuel for the engine but i think its fine.
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:33 11/29/15) ok makes sense. Ill fool with it after work tomorrowput the sight bowl back on the tank i took it off thinking that it was reatricting my fuel flow because it was from the lawn mower shop and thought it couldnt pass enough fuel for the engine but i think its fine.
o i ran the tractor today and it ran great. Thanks for all the help. I ran it for about an hour and a half rinning all the hydraulics too. Might need fluid. Ibly other problem i have with it is the clutch is stuck. Any tricks for that would be great
 
Clutch friction discs sometimes rust to the flywheel. Sometimes you can jack up a rear wheel and jerk it loose. Drive up and down a grade, engage and disengage the clutch pedal. If you have a hand clutch you may be able to break it loose driving with that.

Was the tractor split, and the clutch was found frozen in the engaged position immediately afterward?

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 18:50:01 11/30/15) Clutch friction discs sometimes rust to the flywheel. Sometimes you can jack up a rear wheel and jerk it loose. Drive up and down a grade, engage and disengage the clutch pedal. If you have a hand clutch you may be able to break it loose driving with that.

Was the tractor split, and the clutch was found frozen in the engaged position immediately afterward?

Joe
t was that way when i got it. Tried wacking the pressure plate with my brother stepping on the pedal. Tried going up a slight hill but not steep. I have this water based rust desolver could i spray that in there to loosen it up or not recomended? Im weary about spraying anything in the clutch.
 
I don't have any experience with using a rust penetrate on a friction disc. Maybe someone else here has some ideas. I had a VAC that would sat for a short time and invariably it would rust. Renewed the friction disc, same thing but it would break loose.

Be helpful if you can find some history on this problem. Not too uncommon for the pressure plate hub to be impacted on the hydraulic pump shaft and deformed to the point of not releasing the disc. This can happen when the engine is mated to the bell housing after a split and the pressure plate hub and hydraulic pump splines do not mesh. The only indication of a problem is the clutch will not disengage.

In any event, I would try the penetrate if the only option left was a split.

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 09:46:25 12/01/15) I don't have any experience with using a rust penetrate on a friction disc. Maybe someone else here has some ideas. I had a VAC that would sat for a short time and invariably it would rust. Renewed the friction disc, same thing but it would break loose.

Be helpful if you can find some history on this problem. Not too uncommon for the pressure plate hub to be impacted on the hydraulic pump shaft and deformed to the point of not releasing the disc. This can happen when the engine is mated to the bell housing after a split and the pressure plate hub and hydraulic pump splines do not mesh. The only indication of a problem is the clutch will not disengage.

In any event, I would try the penetrate if the only option left was a split.

Joe
ll try a few more times to free this before i put any chemicals on the friction discand if i cant get it ill try my rust desolver before i decide to go with a new clutch or to split the case. If i have to split it it wont be till next spring/summer but ill keep i touch on my progress. Thanks
 

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