1030 Case Hydraulics

FarmerBrawn

New User
1030 has been acting up. A couple times while discing it would stop raising disc. It happened a couple times and I always got it to raise eventually. Seemed like it lifted slow a couple times. Yesterday I started it up cold and the disc only raised a couple inches off ground.

Three point works fine. I put it under trailer hitch and lifted the back of the pickup off ground. Not sure what pressure that would require.

Aux controls are a rebuilt unit that has not been used much. The relief valve is on the bottom. Doesn't look like the IT manual. It is unshimmed and the oring looks ok. It is kind of hard so I will replace. The piston goes in and out of sleeve easy.

The plastic valves with the balls in the side caps look fine.

If the draft valve is bypassing, will it affect the aux controls or do they have priority? Anything else I should do before talking the draft valve off? I hate messing with that thing.

Thanks
 

The hitch relief is the same relief as the dual remote, the DOM system is fed from the remote valve by the passage on the housing that has the seal ring in it.

The DOM can have no more pressure than the aux outlets. It probably don't take a lot of pressure to lift a rear of a truck

Before reinstalling it there is a chart in the Case service manual that tells the proper shimming and it is different depending on which tractor series -730-1030.

If you have the capability you can test the relief off the tractor with a High pressure handpump and a gage and plugs to cap the outlet ports to the hoses. Tee the gage into the inlet of the dual remote, actuate one circuit and you should be able to watch the relief open and pressure stop rising, you may see a little dip as the relief opens.

In addition to the o ring right at the top of the sleeve, there is a o ring and backup ring about halfway down the bore to seal the side of the piston. IIRC the sleeve o ring and the one at the very top are the same PN.
 
Does the engine labor a bit when it refuses to lift? Sometimes I have seen where the male, and female remote couplers are not compatable and they will lock the oil flow. Try reversing the hoses and see if it works better with the lever working the opposite way.
 
I don't have an oring or seal ring. May need to pick
in the valve body but pretty sure they're gone. I
don't know where they went but found the parts
online. Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:54 11/16/15) I don't have an oring or seal ring. May need to pick
in the valve body but pretty sure they're gone. I
don't know where they went but found the parts
online. Thanks.

There is a groove partway down the bigger bore that the relief valve sleeve travels in. In many I have worked on the upper ring is completely gone, the one under the tapered top part of the small piston assembly.
 
Ok I lied. I found the oring and sleeve in the valve
body.

I put all new orings and sleeve in relief valve and
hydraulics are the same. I bought a gauge and I
am making 700psi at WOT. With pressure this low
I'm guessing maybe the pump? Is there no chance
the DOM shuttle valve causing this?

3pt and cylinders seem to move at normal speeds -
not thinking the screen or filter is plugged. I just
had the PTO case off this year and everything
looked good in there. I guess I'll change the filter?

Thanks
 
(reply to post at 17:54:36 11/16/15)
As a rule of thumb if the pump body gets hot very quickly when a valve is deadheaded the pump is leaking by internally. Ideally you should have a flow test done on the pump out of circuit, it is easy to do if the equipment is available but must be done carefully with some knowledge, really till we know that everything else is just speculation.

You could add a thin washer under the spring in the cap nut and see if that raises the pressure at all but again this must be done carefully.
 

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