Case 480ck - fuel flow problem Any Suggetsions?

Hi, I have a 480ck with the 188ci diesel engine. It will not start and no fuel is getting to the injectors. I double checked that the fuel shut off was open and the cable for the fuel shut off to the pump was in the correct position (i.e., not shut off). I thought that it might have run low on fuel so I put more fuel in and it is filled. I bled any air out of the filters by opening the bleed valve and fuel flows freely from the filter. I opened up the line to the pump and fuel is getting to the pump. Fuel is not getting out of the pump. I opened up the lines to the injectors and still no fuel to the injectors. I cranked the engine for quite a bit of time.

It ran fine last week when we parked it in the barn. The manual and service manual does not point to any bleed valve on the pump. However, there is a bleed bolt on the side and I opened that and still no fuel, but it did drip about one drip per 3 seconds or so.

Any suggestions? I cannot believe that the pump just quit as it always ran great and always started up.

Thanks for your time, and expertise.

remove the side cover with two screws holding it on, have someone crank the engine, you should see rotation there, if not and you do not see the other timing mark show up your pump has seized and needs rebuilt, seen this a lot when people added fuel from cans and or fuel with water in it, nowdays I see it from bad fuel as well, sure someone else will chime in with much better info to explain it better,
cnt

Thanks. I will check that out and let you know.

If I do see rotation, will the pump self prime, or is there a bleed screw that I a missing?

hopefully it was just air locked, you bleed the filters well I will assume, loosen all injector lines at the injector, open throttle wide open, crank engine, may take 30 seconds to a minute or more, let starter rest after 30 seconds for a min or more, crank aging, you should get air free fuel squirting out each line, tighten them up and she should start If your pump is OK
cnt

OK. I will check all of that. If the pump is bad and locked up and needs to be replaced, the manual says that you need a special tool to install it. Is that true?

installed them with and without,,, not a high dollar tool that can be bought from most dsl repair shops
cnt

Before you remove the pump it would be wise to check the delivery valve to make sure it is not stuck in shutoff, The top cap will have to be removed to access it. It is located in the right corner of the pump towards the block.

Before removing cap the pump must be as clean as you can get it as dirt is absolutely a no no inside one.

If I had one that went down as you describe the valve would be my first step after verifying the pump is turning.

Mel

Thanks. I will check that too. Seems odd that it just stopped pumping, like the shut off was stuck in the closed position.

Was going to tell you , when the nuts are removed that hold the top cover there are whitish nylon washers, be sure to remove them so as to not lose them.

Sometimes opening the throttle and tapping the front corner of the pump will unstick the valve but please do not hit it so hard as distort the top of the cover as I have seen some do.

If that is the issue then a good fuel conditioner is in order

Stanadyne/ RoosaMaster pumps don't have bleed screws like CAV pumps do as they are self bleeding. If there's no fuel to injectors while cranking and the pump is turning the metering valve, and/or plungers may be stuck, that's what I've been seeing a lot more of lately. Transfer pressure moves the plungers out on the charging cycle, then the cam ring lobes force the plungers together by the shoes/rollers to feed each injector at the proper time. I've had to use a brass punch to remove a lot of stuck plungers lately, much more than in the past.

Thanks. I assume that is something that requires that the pump be removed and torn apart? Or, is that something that can be done with the pump on the tractor?

Any service beyond what we hav discussed will require Dieseltech's Expertise, I suspect the new fuels have less lubricity than previous.

That they are,, But any time I say anything about fuel conditioner I am laughed off the site

Yes, if the plungers are stuck it will need to come off, torn down for a complete cleaning. If there has ever been traces of water in fuel that can stick the plungers quick. E-mail is open on classic if you have more questions, be glad to visit with you.

I'm not laughing and I know enough about both gasoline and diesel fuel chemistry to realize there IS an issue. I've a neighbor that is a retired Case tech, and still works out his shop on the farm. He sees so many issues with that today that he's on a mission to inform. He vow's ATF added to diesel and properly agitated around before storage, like in winter for those unused units is an absolute must! I know the lubricity must be improved and just maybe there isn't just one solution. I'm not sure but looking at the some the diesel pump issues he putzes with, I'll probably just begin using ATF. There sure are plenty of things out there, but what?

the shut off plunger is INDEED stikin , one of my 430s has a broken post that holds the plungr spring just so-so ,,. I bought the 430 not running about 7 yrs ago ..and that's what I found , been killin the motor in hi gear ever since ,, can I put manual fuel valve or a modern bs electric shut off on the fuel line ??? ..also my brothers big 400 has a fuel cutoff stuk shut , never could get along with the 400-800 fuel pump , does anyone know a trik ?,,, this damfuel dont have any slikem in it anymore .. these days I make it a habit to shut off the engine than open the fuel switch again ,, just to keep it from stikin ,my 1070 ,and perkins 354 and jd 4020 are problematic if they sit over a month ,.. as a middle son of 3 and 5th child of 8 I am used to being ignored and laughed at,,, and have no problem being bitter toward those that cause me pain ,. LOL,. they can laff all they want . I use fuel additives religously ,, atf is my favorite clean all,.. every resurrected motor gets lucas oil treatment ,. and a early oil change, I add 3 pints of atf and run for 6 hours or so lite duty , raking hay ect ,.. that cleans the motor very well,. btw ,,, my 630 gasser has been runnin crappy , new spark plugs did not help ,,. it has a dumazupside down coil ,,gonna change it out and mount it uprite , , only way to change the plugs is to remove the p steering resevoir .. my question is this did the guys that misengineered my 630 get fired and ended up going to work for general motors to mess them all up with poorly engineered cars >?

01, I believe you have it wrong, the engineers have gone to Ford, I would sooner loosen and move the reservoir to change plugs than build trucks that require cab removal to change plugs then build engines that plugs blow out of or twist off trying to remove, common with Ford.

btdt ... gotta agree ,it is really bad all over ,. all our county ambulances were once powered by 6.0s . best was 192.000 miles , worst was just over a hundred ,.. rite now we are fast forward into 2018 budget replacing these chassis with chevies ,,. which btw , are being discontinued because of epa woes and are goona be v -10 gassers when all the diesels are sold out