Help! Remove rocker oil supply tube and crank shaft pulley

Anyone out there know how to remove this rocker oil supply tube from the block?
Also I would like to remove the front cover to get a look at the governor and clean it out looks like the front end needs to come off to remove the pulley. Seems like the only thing I see is there's a pin maybe holding it on, but I don't want to drive it with a sledge for fear of damaging the main bearings. maybe a rivet gun? Please bear with me just one more thing anyone know which direction the clutch plate goes short end to the flywheel as shown or long end to the flywheel? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance Byron

The oil supply tube should be a slip-fit into the head, and should pull out fairly easily. If it seems stuck, you should be able to twist it out with a set of vice-grips. The crankshaft pulley is a light press fit onto the crankshaft, and the pin prevents it from spinning and wearing loose over time. You can drive the pin with a small sledge. When I removed mine, I backed the pulley up with another heavier sledge to avoid bending the end of the crankshaft. I don't think that you need to worry about the bearings. The pin is what is called a "grooved taper pin" and is made from very soft metal which creates a force fit when installed. It will come out easier in one direction than in the other since it was originally tapered, but the hole originally had a constant diameter. If the pin still fits tightly, then you can use it again. Also, be prepared to use a puller on the center hub of the pulley, not on the outside edge. If your crankshaft and pulley still fit properly, then you are pretty fortunate. Don't break the pulley, or you may have trouble finding another that will fit right.

Pin removal is a snap with a air chisel with the proper pin punch size.

The oil tube could be fairly tight and if I were you unless you are having the block resurfaced I would work around it. If you feel you must remove it I would find something that slipped down through it to keep the tube from collapsing when you grab it with vice grips or a small pipe wrench, I just had a DC job that was very difficult and rather than damage it I just left it in place.


Be sure you pull from the hub not the pulley flange or if it has rusted on you will break it. May seem crude but on DCs we have used a 6 ton jack and pulled it off with chain wrapped around the hub and out over the base of the jack, the pump has to be on the bottom when used horizontal. BUT, the front end needs to be outta the way to do that.

If you are not having seal leakage why not save yourself all the work and remove the distributor and drive housing, all the governor mechanism comes out with that housing, all thats left is the fork and that is inspectable and even removable through that opening, just mark the drive angle of the slot when you remove the housing so it is in time when you reinstall it, really, if the governor is your only concern that's what I'd do if I were in your shoes. Mel

As always good Sound advice, I'm real glad I asked having a tapered pin in the pulley was something I was completely unaware of thanks for the heads up! And putting a proper size drill bit in the tube to keep from crushing it is a great idea. The tube has to come out to repair the block surface I cant get around it..
Thanks Guys Byron

MEI question? Is the governor gear not timed to the cam gear There's no mag or distributor on it right now I was thinking I would have to remove the cover to insure the gears mesh properly to what I thought would have timing marks on the governor and cam gears. The reason I wanted to remove the governor is the slow response. Don't know what I was thinking yea its a case SC 1952

(quoted from post at 14:29:58 08/13/15) MEI question? Is the governor gear not timed to the cam gear There's no mag or distributor on it right now I was thinking I would have to remove the cover to insure the gears mesh properly to what I thought would have timing marks on the governor and cam gears. The reason I wanted to remove the governor is the slow response. Don't know what I was thinking yea its a case SC 1952

Click to expand...

There are timing marks on all 3 gears but if the drive angle for the mag/ distributor is the same as when disassembled it is the same even if the timing marks are 180 out. It is not a real concern. If you are concerned about the marks being correct you can carefully remove the housing and see where the timing mark is and install the mark in the same relationship and line up the coupling slot where it was when removed.

Slow response is usually caused by improper link length between the governor arm and the carb. If the throttle is put wide open and the carb held wide open manually the rod link should just slip in the carb hole. I would try that before disassembling anything else.

(quoted from post at 13:28:11 08/14/15)

(quoted from post at 14:29:58 08/13/15) MEI question? Is the governor gear not timed to the cam gear There's no mag or distributor on it right now I was thinking I would have to remove the cover to insure the gears mesh properly to what I thought would have timing marks on the governor and cam gears. The reason I wanted to remove the governor is the slow response. Don't know what I was thinking yea its a case SC 1952

Click to expand...

There are timing marks on all 3 gears but if the drive angle for the mag/ distributor is the same as when disassembled it is the same even if the timing marks are 180 out. It is not a real concern. If you are concerned about the marks being correct you can carefully remove the housing and see where the timing mark is and install the mark in the same relationship and line up the coupling slot where it was when removed.

Slow response is usually caused by improper link length between the governor arm and the carb. If the throttle is put wide open and the carb held wide open manually the rod link should just slip in the carb hole. I would try that before disassembling anything else.

Click to expand...

Ill give it a shot after I get the clutch back in so it wont move so easy. I have tried to set the governor linkage IAW (In accordance with) the manual that did not seem to work so well maybe this method of yours will help I know it works on old fords.
what you suggested could just work Ill let ya know if it works could be awhile but I will get back to ya..
Thanks Byron