Need help on Case 770 pto

I want to put my new tractor to work so I can assess my purchase and see what all is wrong with it so I can start fixing things that aren't right. I have manuals ordered for this tractor but they haven't arrived yet so have a few questions about the pto I'd like some help with. It appears the previous owner took out the top two bolts and loosened the bottom two to take the pto shield off. After closer inspection, it appears one of the top bolts may be broke off inside. Grrr. If I don't take the time to remove the broken bolt and I just replace the other missing bolt and tighten the two bottom ones, will that be safe enough to hold it all together with the torque of a 15' batwing mower?

Question two: I removed the snap ring on the pto shaft but cannot get the shaft to slide out so I can flip it over to the 1000 pto spline. I'm thinking it hasn't been pulled in 10 or 20 years or maybe never??? How do I go about removing the shaft without damaging the splines. I'm going to have to grab it with a vise grip and hammer away I presume but a vise grip will move and gouge when you beat on it. The only other idea I had was to slide a pto shaft connector onto it and beat on that. Any ideas??? Do I need the pull the whole pto assembly out of the tractor to deal with this or does it just take some persuasion from a hammer?

Question three: There appears to be an electrical sensor near there that is no longer wired? Should there be a light on the dash when the pto is engaged or is this an oil pressure sensor or what? There's a wire hanging nearby in there that should be attached to this sensor but disappears into a wiring harness so pretty tough to follow it back to anything. The wiring on this tractor is in terrible shape so I don't want to reconnect it without knowing what its for in case it shorts out somewhere along the way or under the dash.

Question four: The pto will not spin when the tractor is running until you turn it on. But after you shut it off, it will keep spinning. Is there a pto brake that's easily adjusted? Is it similar to the 30 series? Does it require any special tools?

Question five: I presume there's no heavy oil in this tractor? Only Hytran? The transmission, rear end, hydraulic remotes, 3 point and power steering are all one reservoir? The filler cap on the back has no dipstick. There are sight glasses on the side of the transmission/final drive casting. They were painted over at one time but I was able to scrap enough off the glass to somewhat reasonably determine there's no oil in there or at least its lower than the bottom sight glass. I intend to put the tractor on a 9 wheel hay rake for its first job. Light duty work only. What would you guys do? Add oil now...because of not knowing how low it is? I hate to put clean oil on top of dirty....if its dirty??? Run it a day on the rake, then drop the oil and put new in? I'd be taking a chance there's enough oil in there to properly lube everything for the day but sounds reasonable if the hydraulic remotes and 3 point work. The reason I ask about the oil is if I need to pull the pto assembly for repair work on the brake or the 540/1000 flip, or the broken bolt removal, then do I need to drain the oil anyway if I open it up back there?

Bonus question: I find no hydraulic filter on this tractor. Is it the canister under the front right corner of the operators platform? I was thinking it was a hydraulic accumulator or some such thing. This is an 8 speed tractor. I do know the P.Shift tractors have two of them but I'm not sure of their function. This is my first 70 series tractor and just don't know anything about them.

If anyone knows the answer to even one question I'd like to hear it. Sorry to put so many questions in one post. You don't have to be an expert and have all the answers but any ideas, opinions, knowledge or shared experience will be sooo appreciated. Thanks. Brad
P.S. I'll post some pics from my phone in a minute.

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OK. Not sure why or how those pictures posted super close up. That was weird. But I guess you get an up close view of the parts in question.

The trany/rearend/hyd are common and fill in the hole with no dipstick. The sight glasses are the level indicators. The canister on the right is the trany/hyd filter. I would drain and replace the oil before doing work since its low and you don't know how much and how old. There are 3 drain plugs I think , trany, rear end, hyd, even tho they all fill from the same place. The rest I'll leave to others.

for removing the pto shaft my suggestion would be find an old 540 coupler and rig it to attach to a slide hammer that way all the force goes straight out. Had to do that to my brothers New holland to get the shaft out and his is only 10 yrs old lol.

Good idea. Thanks Jeremy.

1 I think you are safe with 3 bolts.
2 Covered by Jeremy.
3 Trans temp sender.
4 PTO brake is activated by a spring, and released with hydraulic pressure.
5 Most of the 770's and 870's are early models that have almost the same PTO housing as the 30 series. Measure the oil level and compare to your 30 series dip stick. If your tractor is 73 or newer this will not work because it is just an elbow to dump the oil in.
Bonus That can is the hydraulic filter. Make sure the by pass valve is in there!!

Thanks Jon. I wouldn't have thought to look for three drain plugs. I didn't have a chance to look at the tractor today. Does the canister get replaced or does it come apart and replace an element inside?

Where did you find your 770 8 speed? Looking for either an 770 or 870.

Thanks Darrell. My 770 is a late model so no way to check oil level. Don't know why they made that change.

I asked Jon already but I'll ask you too. Does the canister get replaced or does it come apart and replace an element inside? I didn't have a chance to look at it up close today.

I'm in South Dakota. I answered an ad in my local paper. The guy had another 770. Power shift with a cab but it was ROUGH. Of the two I choose this one because it seemed to be in better mechanical condition, 8 speed, late model AND had a factory canopy. This tractor is also a bit rough but doesn't look to bad at a distance since it had a hack job repaint maybe 15 years ago. Won't really know what I have until I put it in the field.

Just the element inside the canister.As said before there should be a spring and a by pass valve [and element]in the canister. The valve is usually white in color and usually in the end of the filter, spring should be right there too.

Thanks for your reply. Good to know what to expect. I'll get a filter next trip to town.