Just bought what I believe is a 1929 Case C

Double N Hay

New User
Hello everyone new here and looking for advice. Just bought this tractor, couldn't pass it up since it was on steel. I haven't worked on anything this old before. The manifold on it is totally a loss. Can someone help me out, is this tractor worth getting running? The previous owner said it was free, but we couldn't spin it on purchase date. I am not the paint it and leave it under a blanket type, but it would be really cool to have it running. Any idea on a cost estimate? Thanks
 
Get it running! Should be easy. They were designed so a farmer could fix them in the field.

If it is stuck, it is likely to be stuck valves, less likely stuck pistons. They are renowned for having stuck valves if left sitting for long periods.

If it is stuck valves, take off the valve cover and tap on the valves to loosen them up. Use plenty of penetrating lubricant on valve stems and guides.

I have seen posts indicating that reproduction manifolds are available.

I have the C my father bought new in 1937.
 
Sorry guys. I couldn't get my pictures to upload last night and now I can't edit my post to upload them. Here are the pics I tried to add last night.
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Pour some atf in the plug holes and put the plugs back in. Let sit for a few days. Get the valves loose before trying to turn it over or you will bend or break something.
After a few days of soaking, remove plugs and try to turn it. Take your time and soak again if not turning. Patience in the best tool you have. Do not try to turn it by pulling it with another tractor or truck.
Get a manual for it and READ READ READ. Make sure you oil the valve train good and get it loosened up.
I think manifolds are available from Steiner's parts. I believe a D series manifold will fit.
Good looking tractor. Where are you located?
Richard in NW SC
 
In picture number 5, if you look on the block, in the area of the #4 cylinder, you should see a small area that has been machined smooth. The serial number should be stamped there. More than likely it's a 6 digit number. Take the first and fourth numbers, put them together, and subtract 3, and that will give you the year of the tractor.
 
Nice find. Definitely needs to be put in running condition---and left unpainted as is. I have a 1938 C.

Your gas tank has only one fill cap. The manifold is an all fuel manifold so the original tank would have had two caps for two compartments. They started on gas and then ran on a heavier fuel. I have a gas manifold assembly in good condition that will fit on it. $20 plus UPS shipping.

I would put half a pint of diesel fuel in each cylinder and try to turn the engine in a week or two after checking the valves as already mentioned. If the engine is still stuck, I have one other trick to get it loose. Let me know. I would remove the four side plates and clean out any curd in the bottom of the crankcase and clean the oil pump inlet before attempting to start it.

Look for a horizontal crack in the block behind the manifold. Many of those old Cs and Ds froze up and caused the crack mentioned. Typically the old Cs and Ds if let set for a long time without fluid in the cooling system will have rust flakes in the block and top tank on the radiator. Does the radiator have round cores or oval cores? Does the bottom of the radiator seem to be in good condition including the drain pipe?

Typically, these tractor collect water in the tranny if they set outside for long period of time. The clutch holds about a quart of oil and can be inspected from a plate on the left side. A drain plug for the clutch is on the right side.
 
Pour some atf in the plug holes and put the plugs back in. Let sit for a few days. Get the valves loose before trying to turn it over or you will bend or break something.
After a few days of soaking, remove plugs and try to turn it. Take your time and soak again if not turning. Patience in the best tool you have. Do not try to turn it by pulling it with another tractor or truck.
Get a manual for it and READ READ READ. Make sure you oil the valve train good and get it loosened up.
I think manifolds are available from Steiner's parts. I believe a D series manifold will fit.
Good looking tractor. Where are you located?
Richard in NW SC
 
In addition to the above atf soaking I have had success placing a jack on the crank. This puts constant pressure on
the crankshaft thus the pistons. Also with the jack having pressure hitting the crank with a hammer vibrates the
stuck engine. I freed 2 this way, but remember do not be in a hurry. Ideally a vibrating machine as a vibrating part
out of an old recliner fastened to the crank seems to work well. One company selling a compound to free stuck
engines only guarantees their product if vibration is used.
 
It look like you're hood is wrong it should be one with out the script and the gas tank is wrong. If
you will give me a call. The water pump should be flat belt drive and the carburetor should be a
Kingston.Bruce phone 937/538/0548
 
Gas tank looks like it is a shop made replacement, note it is galvanized. It would take quite a tin smith to duplicate the starter tank inside the
main tank like the original, hence the single filler neck

'34/'35 was the time frame that both carbs and mags were updated. Yours has the early carb with the late mag.

Looks like the toolbox with the serial tag is absent. '29 L's are unmistakeable, '29c C's not so much. The serial number on the block should tell
the tale.
 
you mean the pin on the hand crank?? I did also on one. Installed a grade 8 pin from a bolt , then it worked.
 
It is newer than a '29. Every '29 I have seen has the toolbox under the platform and the tag on the right side of the front support.
......
Oops. for some reason I was thinking it was an L. Disregard my comment.
 
Hi everyone, I finally got the serial# it is 420123. I think the first number is a four, kind of out of line with the rest, but the only thing that makes sense.
 
That is really neat! Would be fun to see it running in its current "finish".

We have a rusty '31 Farmall Regular that my husband got running (we are keeping it rusty).
 

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