1978 david brown 995 theust washer dilima!!!!!!!please help

newbie995 · Jul 2, 2015

Well, I just bought a 1978 Case 995 for 1500 bucks. I noticed it was a bit loud when running. The oil pressure was around 20 pounds when at an idle. I only ran it for a max of 10 minutes. I changed all fluids and filters. However yesterday out of curiosity I pulled the pan to look at the guts. Well, I found the thrust washers in the pan with a gobb of shavings. But this is where it gets bad...... the PO apparently ran it for a lllooonnnggg time like this. Its ground the thrust bearing groove off the main cap, that can be replaced, however it also ground the groove from the block. So I need to know if I can run a half thrust on that main or if there is another fix. I'm pretty good with tools, welding and so forth. So please let me know what y'all think.

RGMartin · Jul 3, 2015

The main cap can't be replaced without pulling the block and line boring the new cap to match(even 30 years ago Case wouldn't sell you just a cap). 30 years back "my" 1210(same basic engine you have) broke the crankshaft and wiped out the thrusts and recesses for them. My dad(toolmaker) machined the sides of the cap smooth/parallel, made bronze 1/2 washers that mated to the main cap to serve as thrusts, they were held in place with brass pins into the main cap. He looked at this as a temporary measure to get the tractor back in the field.

Today it still has those 1/2 thrusts, that was 30 years and 5000+ clock hours ago, still on the original rings/valves.

The 1210 is hitched to baler today, hoping the hay will dry faster.

newbie995 · Jul 3, 2015

That's pretty awesome. However what would o do about the thrust groove being gone from the block? I found some blocks at a local good ol boys shop for 100 bucks a piece. But none of them are a 995. So now I'm curious as to what block I can use to put all my engine guts in to make it run. Any ideas?

RGMartin · Jul 3, 2015

It only runs on the half thrusts that are on the cap. No upper thrusts at all. Still holds decent oil pressure. #40 cold, 10# or so hot at idle.

As for blocks, A 1200, late 990 with 4/49 engine, 995, 1210, 1212, 1290, 1390, 1394 would all work. A 1410, 1412, 1490 or 1494 would work too but you would need the rods and crank too.

The blocks are stamped behind the alternator on a flat spot, any that have a 4/49(4 cylinder 49 cubes per cylinder) or 4/55(4 cylinder 55 cubes per cylinder). Some of the ones with a "T"(Turbocharged) in the designation are the larger from the 14 series tractors, others would be the small journal from the 1394(which will work with your parts). The 4/49 and 4/55 are the same block, just they use different cranks(throw is 1/4" more on a 4/55 than a 4/49) and pistons(deck height is 1/4 higher on a 4/49 than a 4/55). Both are 3 15/16" standard bore with a 4" or 4.5" stroke.

A 4/47 block will not work.

newbie995 · Jul 3, 2015

1 more question for ya sir, what would have caused the thrusts to so that. I've heard several different causes but nothing definite? Well maybe 2 questions, the hydraulic fluid filter? The parts stores here in Mountain Grove MO. could only match it to one that has a smaller diameter but same height. Also the plate thing that it sets on is warped, like the pump was pulling on it VERY HARD. Any ideas on the aftermarket filter they gave me. They ordered it from A@I tractors out of Springfield. Vapormatic part #A-93413C1

RGMartin · Jul 3, 2015

The hydraulic filter should be # k920522 in the belly under the tractor? A&I carries them like $25 or so. I don't recognize that part.

You have to reuse the bypass strainer out of your old one( I have welded many back together). Lots of times ice will mangle the filter and other parts in the sump.

As to the thrusts, the only time I have seen it was with a broken crank. Maybe if someone had a bad habit of riding the clutch especially if it had an oil pressure/flow issue???

newbie995 · Jul 3, 2015

Well sir, I do appreciate all your time, I believe I have most of the answers I have been looking for. I'm going to try the half thrusts with brass washers and see how long it will last. I will keep a pretty close eye on it though.

Adirondack case guy · Jul 4, 2015

Rich,
He more than like has a 996 with the hand operated PTO clutch, and the previous owner failed to shift the PTO into neutral when not in use and just left the hand lever back all the time, putting pressure on the crank.
We had a couple of customers who learned that lesson the hard way, even though we advised all new owners on proper use of the hand clutch on the pto and posible damage as described here.
Loren.

RGMartin · Jul 4, 2015

(quoted from post at 11:15:12 07/04/15) Rich,
He more than like has a 996 with the hand operated PTO clutch, and the previous owner failed to shift the PTO into neutral when not in use and just left the hand lever back all the time, putting pressure on the crank.
We had a couple of customers who learned that lesson the hard way, even though we advised all new owners on proper use of the hand clutch on the pto and posible damage as described here.
Loren.

Loren, could be, wasn't thinking of the 996 vs 995 thing.

Most I have worked on where someone ran with the hand clutch in, the PTO throw out bearing went out destroying the whole clutch pack, breaking arms, springs, and the seperator plate.

newbie995 · Jul 4, 2015

Ide say that would have been some of the problem. When I went and picked the tractor out of the field, we were jumping it to get it started and after we finally got it started we noticed the pto was engaged. The lever was pulled all the way back.

newbie995 · Jul 5, 2015

Hopefully your still here Mr. Martin, I am curious about the brass washer fix. I am taking the main cap to the machinist tomorrow. So my plans were to have him resurface the trashed side of the cap. Take measurements for how thick of a piece of brass I will need. The question I have is should I go ahead and smooth off the side that is still good and brass washer it to or just put some new thrust washers.

Brokengun · Jul 5, 2015

I would have loved to see that repair!

Ole time toolmakers like your dad had a lot of knowledge.

The big scare for this type of repair today will be the price of the brass.

You don't happen to remember the type of brass your dad used for the repair?

RGMartin · Jul 5, 2015

I'd leave the side that was OK alone. I asked him what the material was, he thinks it was bronze of some sort out of the scrap bin.

Dad put another 5 hours on her this afternoon. The 1210 with the MF 124 baler will absolutely bury me with a little boy helper(handles the 6th and 7th tiers) on the wagons...

newbie995 · Jul 5, 2015

I wonder if brass would work. It wouldn't be as hard as bronze though.
Another question, I was under the tractor and noticed the crank is pushed forward still. Is there a reason its not just "free floating" right now. PTO is disengaged.

newbie995 · Jul 5, 2015

Life would be so much easier if I could just take the main out of my other motor and slap it in.

newbie995 · Jul 6, 2015

Any thoughts on why the crank is pushed forward?

RGMartin · Jul 7, 2015

Clutch issues are the only thing that comes to mind. Pull the round cover off the bottom of the clutch housing. See if any parts fall out, or anything looks like it is broken. make sure neither throwout bearing is pushing on the mechanism.

1978 david brown 995 theust washer dilima!!!!!!!please help

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