1070 - Press clutch and it kills the engine

Kittum

Member
I had a good day with this tractor last week after getting the brake issue figured out. I put it on the round bailer and ran all day with out any big issues. I put it in the barn where it has set for a few days while a rainy spell passed.

I go start it up today and the instant the clutch pedal hits the bottom of the stroke it kills the engine rather abruptly.

What is going on?
 
sounds like one of the pilot spools for the powershift is stuck, I'm sure that Rod or one of the other guys on here will be happy to give you
more info but until you speak with one of them or another good case mechanic leave it alone, you dont want to cause further damage as
powershifts can be a pricey fix.
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:02 06/17/15) I had a good day with this tractor last week after getting the brake issue figured out. I put it on the round bailer and ran all day with out any big issues. I put it in the barn where it has set for a few days while a rainy spell passed.

I go start it up today and the instant the clutch pedal hits the bottom of the stroke it kills the engine rather abruptly.

What is going on?

The same contamination that stuck the brake spool is now sticking the pilot spools in the PS valve. The pilot spools will need cleaned and freed up in their bores, do NOT use any abrasives on either the spool or the spool bore, You should have a service manual to identify spool locations. Are you sure that the transmission oil is clean and filter changes kept up? Are the cold oil relief cartridges in place on the bottom of the filters, if not the dirty oil completely bypasses the filters and goes straight to the system valves. This problem is most always caused by lack of mantainance or improper filter changes. You need to know why contamination is getting by the filters.
 

Ordering filters tomorrow although I am having trouble sorting out part numbers for the filters at the "Case IH Online Parts Store".

http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52723ar234492bi1686403-17

For the round top filter I have a part #G35446 and a product #G102111. For the flat top filter I have a kit (filter and O ring) product #A65854. I am not seeing any cold oil relief cartridges on section 0288 of the parts manual. I seen on another post that I need to get the Case brand filters and not the Baldwin. Since all I have locally is a New Holland dealership I will have to convince my Amish parts guy that he can get this stuff. The nearest Case dealer is 97 miles away.

The hydro oil looks ok but I am going to change it. Although they make HyTran a few miles from here, there is no place to buy it. I have JD 303 and Mobil 425 handy but should I use something else? and how many gallons of oil does it take to top it off?

My copy of the 700 some odd page manual has not arrived yet but I think I have located the spool valves that need attention here -
http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52723ar235027bi2369380-12
I believe they are Item #10 held in by plugs items #3 and #11. I pulled one of them out so far using a #10-24 screw 2" long. I think a 3 or 4 inch screw will work better for the rearward facing ones because of some hard piped lines passing through.

So I think that leaves 4 questions at this point

1 - did I find the right valves?
2 - what kind of hydro oil since HyTran is not available
3 - How much oil?
4 - are there any cold oil relief cartridges on this tractor.
 
New holland dealers should have Hytran on hand, they may call it by a different name but Hytran goes in all the tractors that come off the
line wether they paint them red or blue.
 
I believe the reliefs that Mel is refering to would be part 6, http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-
search.html#epc::mr52723ar234492bi3917491-20, often they are stuck to the end of the filter and some guys toss them out with the filter by
accident. There will be one on each filter.
 
(quoted from post at 03:59:47 06/18/15) New holland dealers should have Hytran on hand, they may call it by a different name but Hytran goes in all the tractors that come off the
line wether they paint them red or blue.
New Holland calls it AMBRA MASTERTRANS
 
You can get the filters from any Napa/Carquest, or anyone that sells Wix. #51786 and #51787 Less than half the cost, Case doesn't make their own filters.

Holds 16-17 gallons of oil.
 

That is some good info to have. Our local Napa has been very good to us. I will buy the Wix filters to avoid confusing the Amish parts guy. The Amish guys are real good within the systems that they are used to but when I get them outside of that realm - things go down hill.
 

OK. Drained all the hydro oil out of the tractor by getting to the drain plug under the clutch housing first and working my way down to the last one near the drawbar connection. There was 15 gallons that came out. Most of it looked like mud. It was not as black as motor oil but not far from it. The oil from under the clutch and transmission looked the worst. I also seen a few 1/2 inch sized sludge deposits in the bottom of the drain buckets as I poured them over to the barrel.

For the filters, both housings are the dome type. There is no flat filter housing. Neither filter had a cold oil bypass in the bottom of them. I suppose I will get the Wix brand filter equivalent of product number G102111 "which is a replacement part for the obsolete part G35446" - for both filter housings. I will also get new O-rings of the canister seals (#87421147 and A60766).

New oil of course. Then I get back to cleaning the spool valves. Hopefully by then, Bill the tropical depression pest will quit raining on my work. So far I have only gotten 2.5 inches of rain from it today but a bit more is expected.
http://www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/24_hr_rainfall_accumulation/rainfall.
 
Doesn't matter the shape of the housing, they take the same filters. Some tractors have both round top, some have both square top, some have one of each. The 51786(hydraulics), and 51787(power-shift circuit) are good current numbers. Don't know where you found your numbers as they don't come up when I try to cross them.

You had better be sitting down when you price the relief valves from Case. Someone quoted $400 each recently. You can probably find them from a smaller junkyard much more reasonably. Without the relief valves, you mights as well not put filters back in it.
 

Well I just got back from my Napa parts place. Like I said before they are very good to me - I just never realized how good. They found some used relief valves for $47 each. They should be here next Monday or Tuesday.

My parts numbers are just coming off Case's Online Parts Store. The local Napa guys are having trouble with those numbers as well.

http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52723ar234492bi2960209-19

The interesting thing was the filters. They had some on the shelf since the 70's. I hope these things are still good.
22848.jpg
 

Update on the project in case this is useful to anyone in the future.

It appears that UPS has lost the cold oil bypass valves that insert in the bottom of the hydro oil filters. My good friends at Napa with the help of some older tractor mechanics came up with a idea to get the tractor on the move again. We sealed off the bottom of the hydro filters with mason jar lids inserted between the canister spring and filter bottom. While this is not a complete seal it will force almost all the oil through the filters. After about 20 hours we assume most of the left over trash will be on the filters and plan on changing them again. By that time we hope UPS will find and deliver the cold oil bypass valves.

I did find the stuck spool valve. It was the one on the right hand rear corner of the clutch and power shift control box. I used a tooth brush and brake cleaner. I had to put extend the brake cleaner straw with some small vacuum line to clean out the hole. I figured out that when the spool valve is stuck it is rather hard to get the spring and plug screwed back in. When the spool valve is moving freely, the spring and plug is much more manageable to re-install.

At this point the clutch works and everything seems ok. Hopefully I can get things put back together properly soon.
 

Project update after 4 hours of running a round bailer.

At this point I am happy to say that the tractor shifts through the "power" shifts smoothly and predictably. Before this matter became a big problem running through the power shifts was abrupt and a bit erratic. I believe that others on this forum have stated that this was a sign of a problem and I will have to agree. Because I was new to this tractor and it being 40 years old I did not know I had an issue.

For the first 30 or 45 minuets I did have some doubts about this repair. Shifting into 2nd was hit and miss, hard, abrupt, and nerve testingly (<- a new word) erratic. Reverse was a bit difficult to get in and out of. The hydro pressure would seem jump around a bit but staying in the green range. I suspect an amount of trash and sludge was moving through the system. But after the first hour everything settled into a nice smooth running pattern.

Tomorrow morning I will see if UPS managed to deliver the cold oil bypass valves but I will wait a few more running hours before installing them. So far the mason jar canning lids seem to be doing ok for a temporary fix.
 

UPS came through with the cold oil bypass valves. I have about 20 hours running with the bailer so everything worked out. The mason jar lids survived although a bit bent. The filters were trashed and the oil from the canisters looked like mud. There was quite a bit of sludge and small bits of metal.
23342.jpg
 

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