Re: W3 Case Model 42

Christopher Mikesell · Mar 15, 2015

I suggest that you try to poke through with something smaller like a pin, a torch tip cleaner, or a smaller number drill. Holes like that in hydraulic parts are usually a specific size for a specific reason.

Cariboo4x4 · Mar 15, 2015

Hello Christopher

I tried my smallest torch tip cleaner and it would not go through. Tried a variety of small tools. Looking at hole from inside of plunger it appears to have a bit of debris poking through 5 thou or so. I think hole is blocked with small bits of clutch backing material and/or small metal flakes. A 1/16" bit fit perfectly but I could only insert it about 1/8". My service manual says to use a "tag wire" to make sure its open. I'm pretty sure it means that hole should be open through to center of plunger so oil can pass through. I really cant see any use for a blind hole. Hoping some of the seasoned service guys here or at my local case tractor dealers can help me clarify this over the next few days.

Cariboo4x4 · Mar 15, 2015

I'll shine a light through tomorrow to see if the 1/16" hole reduces to something smaller. It appeared today to be completely blocked by debris.

Cariboo4x4 · Mar 15, 2015

My curiosity got to me. Sat in the dark and shone a LED through end of plunger and sure enough right in the center of the 1/16" hole I could see a round hole of about 10 thou. As for debris I must be seeing things. Had my hawk eye Wife take a look to and she figures it's supposed to be that way. So going to put it together tomorrow and go from there. Still any clarification would be great from the well seasoned people here

I guess the manufacturer drilled the hole part way 1/16" in diameter and then drilled it the rest of the way with a 10-20 thou drill bit. Im just going to put it together as is till I get further clarification. Glad my HSS steel bits just went dull today!

John Saeli · May 22, 2015

There is plenty of surface to move the rear crank seal in, if need be. What might have happened, was that the original seal may have left a wear groove, so when the seal was replaced, at some time, they moved the new seal in, on new surface.

Cariboo4x4 · May 22, 2015

Yes, when I take it apart I'll look for that.

DKase · May 25, 2015

I have had the one on my 830 out several times. I just use the fixture as a handle and take in out and in by hand. My fixture extends out beyond the bell housing, and there are 2 holes in it that match up with the bell housing bolts to use lining bolts to keep it lined up straight. Without those lining bolts you will have a terrible time getting it back together without tearing up the seals on the back end of the converter. If I were you I would fabricate something like that with lining bolts. It is easy now when it is in there lined up right. An extra hour now could very well save you from having to do it all over again.

Cariboo4x4 · May 25, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:00:08 05/25/15) I have had the one on my 830 out several times. I just use the fixture as a handle and take in out and in by hand. My fixture extends out beyond the bell housing, and there are 2 holes in it that match up with the bell housing bolts to use lining bolts to keep it lined up straight. Without those lining bolts you will have a terrible time getting it back together without tearing up the seals on the back end of the converter. If I were you I would fabricate something like that with lining bolts. It is easy now when it is in there lined up right. An extra hour now could very well save you from having to do it all over again.

I'll definetly do that. I may have read it wrong that my service manual says the W3 set-up does not need that option yet what you stated makes a lot of sense. The converter\multi-disc assembly is about 21" long so I expect the guide bolts should be the same length. The picture in my manual shows a bar extending across horizontally so I'll add that with some tube guides that slide over the guide bolts. I'll fab that up and take another pic. Thank you for the tip!

Cariboo4x4 · May 27, 2015

Posted so new info and pics at:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=7551696#7551696

DKase · May 27, 2015

Looks much better! All you need now are handles to the front so it slides on the pins and you can push down on the handles to balance it. They go together much better if you have the feel of it going together, which you loose with the hoist.

Cariboo4x4 · May 27, 2015

(quoted from post at 10:21:36 05/27/15) Looks much better! All you need now are handles to the front so it slides on the pins and you can push down on the handles to balance it. They go together much better if you have the feel of it going together, which you loose with the hoist.

Thank you! So weld handles to it so easier to slide it back and forth? The horizontal box tube is welded to a piece of channel so I can fit a few fingers in there and my other hand on the piece the hoist would attach too. I'll put a couple jack stands under back ends of guide pins too.

Re: W3 Case Model 42

Christopher Mikesell

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Cariboo4x4

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Cariboo4x4

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Cariboo4x4

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John Saeli

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Cariboo4x4

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DKase

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Cariboo4x4

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Cariboo4x4

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DKase

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Cariboo4x4

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