Paging C or CC mechanics please

BT in NE · May 24, 2015

I hope someone can help me. I am restoring a 1930 Case C. I have attached a picture of the transmission input shaft. What would cause wear like this? The clutch disc splines are worn this bad also. For being enclosed in an oil mist it's pretty bad. My question is I have a friend who can weld up and remachine everything to specs, but could I just swap the parts from a 1937 tractor I have here? I know there were several part number changes between 1930 and 1937 relating to the clutch. I would appreciate any advice. BT

mEl · May 24, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:28:25 05/24/15) I hope someone can help me. I am restoring a 1930 Case C. I have attached a picture of the transmission input shaft. What would cause wear like this? The clutch disc splines are worn this bad also. For being enclosed in an oil mist it's pretty bad. My question is I have a friend who can weld up and remachine everything to specs, but could I just swap the parts from a 1937 tractor I have here? I know there were several part number changes between 1930 and 1937 relating to the clutch. I would appreciate any advice. BT

The shaft and its mating gear are a matched set, technically they should be changed as a set. This would require the shaft assembly that the ring rides on be swapped out as well.

In actual practice, I would probably swap the pinion in and check its running pattern with Prussian blue after setting the pinion depth and observe the mesh pattern, there is a gage setting that measures off the end of the pinion to the shaft that sets the depth, then the backlash can be set by swapping shims from side to side on the ring shaft. If the mesh pattern looks ok after the measurements are correct I would run it. Believe it or not, you need a book to properly set the pinion depth as there are + or - figures scribed onto the end of the pinion shaft and having the procedure would be helpful, also a setting gage of the proper dimension is needed.

An acceptable mesh pattern is the key, if it is not correct tooth damage could be a factor but I'm betting there are tractors out there with bad pinion bearings and loose ring clearances that have survived for years with no damage.

Christopher Mikesell · May 24, 2015

He is referring to the bevel gear on the other end of the shaft, and the mating bevel gear on the first reduction shaft in the transmission. Best practice would be to change both shafts since the bevel gears are a matched set and have numbers scribed onto them that tell you how to shim them to avoid serious problems. No matter what you do, if you replace that shaft, you will need to re-shim both the replacement shaft and the first reduction shaft in the transmission. If the two gears do not match and were made with a different form (ie. different helix angle, different pitch, different type of bevel gear, etc.), then you will not be able to get a good mesh by any method (even by the bluing method).

BT in NE · May 25, 2015

I guess I should clarify my question. Believe me, I know all about setting up the gear clearance and I am trying to avoid going through that on this one. I want to know if the clutch assembly itself will interchange without trouble. I will have the input shaft repaired and assemble it back with its original parts. I want to use the newer clutch because it is in excellent shape, just needs relined. Thanks for the help. BT

DKase · May 25, 2015

Clutch disk should be the same.

BT in NE · May 26, 2015

Thanks to all who replied. BT

Paging C or CC mechanics please

BT in NE

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mEl

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Christopher Mikesell

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BT in NE

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DKase

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BT in NE

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