SC head gasket install

I am replacing the head gasket on my 52 SC. I had a overheating issue and was pushin g water out the top of radiator. I am replacing the leaking radiator and water pimp which leaks. It had no thermostate in it? I decided to pull the head and replace the head gasket, it was seeping on the side of block out of gasket. When replacing the head gasket, does anyone use something like copper coat or do you just put the gasket on dry? I've heard of using coppercoat on gasket. Thanks, Dick, OR.
 
#1 is to do a compression check. that will give you an idea of valve condition before disassembly. then when off you can give the valves and seats a visual by removing them. makes no sense to just pull a head and replace a gasket when you could have other issues going on with the head. also check it for flatness as it may need planning.i always use permatex high tack gasket sealer on the gaskets. others use copper coat also. torque down in 3 increments till full torque. then start and run for at least 1/2 - 1 hr. the retorque and reset valves as the spec will change with a retorque.
you have 3 things apart that is coolant related in overheating but no confermation which one it is due to just pulling things apart. so between the head gasket, radiator and water pump you should be ok.
 
I removed the gasket on my SC it had no coatings on it. Also It appears to be a three part gasket like a sandwich, common in composite construction like a floor board for an aircraft, never seen a head gasket like that. This was not a single piece of metal. I don't think that Technology was available for use in tractors built in 1952. I'm guessing the gasket was replaced at some time. {Question} Is that what you removed as well? I'm thinking about a coating also. When I was young we would put Indian head glue on everything, Most young folks don't even know what your talking about. Don't get me wrong I'm not suggesting that for your head gasket or mine. I'm sure there's a better product for head gaskets if you decide to put anything at all. Maybe some experts will chime in. I found a place that has rebuild pressure plates for the hand clutch I haven't received it yet but $99 I thought was reasonable. Since you said the engine was overheating, I wonder if you checked the head and block to see if it was for warped?
Best of luck on your new project Byron
 
If the tops of the sleeves and the top deck of the block look descent, then there is no need for a coating. I had valve jobs done on both my VAC-14 and SC, and did not use sealer on either one. I have had no problems. Also, I retorqued the head bolts on both tractors after about an hour of running time. They had lost about 1/3 of their original torque by that time.
 
That's interesting to know I cant remember ever re-torqueing a head but my memory's not what it used to be. I am sure that back then as well as now if it was called out for a re-torque in the manual I would have done it. I certainly appreciate your input past experience is something you cant read in a book and should be heeded. I'm not trying to hijack Dick Bensons post I hope he doesn't mind we both seem to be searching for the same Information. I just thought you should know this has been very helpful. Thanks Byron
 

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