Case SC shifting hard

Bhunt

Member
It seems to be a bit difficult to shift into any gear even at a standstill. However right now I have the tractor split so I was going to look into why. I don't shift on the fly because it will grind the gears and by the time you find the gear your almost at a stop anyway. Seems like I read somewhere it was not intended to be shifted while moving but I may be mistaken. I have had the shifter off before looking at its operation when I first bought the tractor. Now I do remember it can be a little tricky getting the shifter back in. I believe I just greased some of the areas inside. Can anyone clarify the proper operation of the tractor and any insight as to what to look for to smooth out the Shifting. Thanks in advance
Byron
 
I usually add some lucas tranny slip in the tranny to aid in cold weather shifting ,or ,slik 50. .if the brake seals leak before I go thru trouble of changing out seals, I try and put a qt of hub sealer made by lucas ,, durn good stuff ... not sure how much seat time and history you have with tractors ,, you should know .they are not like driving a manual shift car ... most all of us ol country boys that grew up- on these ol tractors learnt how to match the speed to the correct gear and engine speed and shift glide rite in without clutching and so much as a tinkle of a grind ,, none of these tractors of any brand back in those days had synchronized trannys , that is still true today in a lot of modern dry clutch models,, however , the 1290 case hab shift on the go in 1982 , as well as my brothers new massey
 
Hey Ol'e timer!! Myself & 4 kids can all shift our CASE Tractors, on the go, by using common sense, & double clutching. No different than a non-synchro'd truck. I'm talking SC, DC, 400, 730, 800, 1175, might have missed some. The smaller Triple Ranges are super easy to range shift, and like you said, no grinding. However, you said without the clutch, here we all double clutch. Even my daughters.
 
(quoted from post at 16:28:24 04/16/15) Hey Ol'e timer!! Myself & 4 kids can all shift our CASE Tractors, on the go, by using common sense, & double clutching. No different than a non-synchro'd truck. I'm talking SC, DC, 400, 730, 800, 1175, might have missed some. The smaller Triple Ranges are super easy to range shift, and like you said, no grinding. However, you said without the clutch, here we all double clutch. Even my daughters.
I have a Bone cancer in my right shoulder that makes in difficult and painful to coordinate the stiff shifter , I gave my old truck to my son partly for the same reason but also because I'm not able to push in the clutch., But thanks for the tips
 
I Do appreciate the help Ill give it a try As you stated it does leak from the brake seals Someone had replaced both seals on both sides But I did notice that the outer seal should be felt per the parts diagram. I thought about rotating the seals but the area is too rough. Wish I could figure were to find or how to fabricate a seal from felt. I have used the felt from an old saddle blanket to seal a leak on the axel. I know there's a large space between the brake seals and a drain hole to remove fluid that passes the first seal. I may try putting a split homemade seal of felt between the Existing seals with the needed split to the top I thought I may be able to safety wire it thru the metal part of the outer brake seal. I'm going to try what 01gentdc suggested but Any and all Real Ideas would be welcome and appreciated.
Thanks Byron
 
(quoted from post at 21:11:29 04/16/15) I Do appreciate the help Ill give it a try As you stated it does leak from the brake seals Someone had replaced both seals on both sides But I did notice that the outer seal should be felt per the parts diagram. I thought about rotating the seals but the area is too rough. Wish I could figure were to find or how to fabricate a seal from felt. I have used the felt from an old saddle blanket to seal a leak on the axel. I know there's a large space between the brake seals and a drain hole to remove fluid that passes the first seal. I may try putting a split homemade seal of felt between the Existing seals with the needed split to the top I thought I may be able to safety wire it thru the metal part of the outer brake seal. I'm going to try what 01gentdc suggested but Any and all Real Ideas would be welcome and appreciated.
Thanks Byron
Let me correct that I meant to say safety wire to the inner seal
 
SC and DC tractors are more difficult than most to shift on the fly. When new, they were just about impossible to shift on the fly without grinding, even with double clutching. Wear helps a lot. There is no need to grease the shifter parts as long as you can keep lube up to level in the rear end. The transmission will automatically lubricate the shifter mechanism. The recommended procedure for shifting is to stop the tractor (don't use the belt pulley brake for this or you will wear it out quickly, use the turning brakes), use the belt pulley brake to slow or stop the belt pulley shaft, and then shift gears.
 
(quoted from post at 03:35:32 04/17/15) SC and DC tractors are more difficult than most to shift on the fly. When new, they were just about impossible to shift on the fly without grinding, even with double clutching. Wear helps a lot. There is no need to grease the shifter parts as long as you can keep lube up to level in the rear end. The transmission will automatically lubricate the shifter mechanism. The recommended procedure for shifting is to stop the tractor (don't use the belt pulley brake for this or you will wear it out quickly, use the turning brakes), use the belt pulley brake to slow or stop the belt pulley shaft, and then shift gears.
Yea now that makes a lot of sense don't know why I didn't think of it when the belt pulley is running even at a stop in will grind the gears. Thanks Christopher I have had this tractor for about 5 years now I use it to get around the ranch so I don't get so many flats on my truck my son was getting tired of removing the dually wheels. I gave him my old 1979 chev 4X4 with that well known 5MPH granny gear still a great running truck I just needed to switch to automatic. Thanks again
Byron
 
Christopher: Have you ever tried to start a 6 ton load behind a tractor in high gear? Not good. The straight cut gears in the CASE tractors are no different than straight cut gears in a Pre- Mid 50's truck. Getting to know the tractor or truck is a must. Are the gears close ratio requiring a quick shift? Or farther apart, requiring a slower shift? Shifting on the go, without grinding, even new, can be accomplished.
BTW, any progress on Cam Brgs.?
 
I think Christopher hit it dead on. the pulley brake is out of adjustment I looked at it this morning and its not even touching the pulley when it should be engaged I could slide a .008 feeler gauge under it. Its grinding the gears in large part because there was nothing to stop the pulley rotation fast enough before you shift. I just never made the connection. Of course some of it could be me as well. Thanks for all the help Byron
 

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