CC rear axel

I tightened up the one CC rear axle according to the directions I was given here. Now we are working on the second rear axle and it has bigger problems like leaking seal and worn bearings. The ring behind the hub appears to be there only to hold the bolts in place as it just spins freely. We took the key out of the nut on the end of the shaft and removed the nut. The hub appears to have a flat key holding it on and nothing moves further. Do we need to work from the inside and remove the trumpet or should the hub come off the outside. Any help would be appreciated
 
The hubs can be extremely difficult to remove. When I removed them from my CC, I had to install a puller, tighten it up as much as I could, being careful not to bend or break the bolt flange, and apply a lot of heat and rapped it with a 3 lb. hammer. When they popped off, you knew it. The hubs are cast so I stress patience and don't get carried away. They will come off. You could also try heating the hub, letting it cool, apply heat again, and so on, with the puller applied. Under the pulling stress, the expansion and contraction of the metal will sometimes work things loose without having to hit it with a hammer. The end of the axle is also tapered. The square key only keeps the hub from spinning on the axle. The collar which you say is spinning is the adjustment collar for setting the bearing clearance/end play.
 
Yes, patience and pressure are needed to get the hub off. If you are only replacing the seal, you can do that from the outside. To replace the bearings you will need to remove the rear plate, disconnect the drive chain, and remove the drive sprocket in order to get the axle housing off. If you need seal or bearing numbers let me know, as I have just done this to a model C in the last month. BT
 
Thank you for the advice. It sounds like we are on the right track. We have been doing what you said. We just didn't want to wreck something. Yes I expect we will need bearing and seal numbers as things are loose. The collar just spins and doesn't put pressure on the bearing clearance end play so I expect to find something wrong there too, WHEN we get it apart.
 
When I changed wheels on an L, I rigged up a bottle jack and chains to put pressure on the hub. I put a little pressure on it, then heated the hub with a weed burner torch. It only took a few minutes and the wheel popped right off.
 

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