Re: Changing the head gasket on case 830 COM

John Saeli

Well-known Member
Sounds like you are asking about re-torqueing. After everything installed & torqued, all fluid levels full, CASE says to then start the engine, bring to operating temp. Rocker arms will need to come off, & starting with the #1 stud, numerated for torqueing, loosen 1/4 turn, then bring back up to torque. Then move to #2 and so on, following the torqueing pattern. What you will find is that if you simply put the torque wrench on & pull, without loosening 1st, is that most likely, the stud will not give. However, after loosening 1/4 turn 1st, you will find that you will come back the 1/4 turn, and then another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:50 03/23/15) Sounds like you are asking about re-torqueing. After everything installed & torqued, all fluid levels full, CASE says to then start the engine, bring to operating temp. Rocker arms will need to come off, & starting with the #1 stud, numerated for torqueing, loosen 1/4 turn, then bring back up to torque. Then move to #2 and so on, following the torqueing pattern. What you will find is that if you simply put the torque wrench on & pull, without loosening 1st, is that most likely, the stud will not give. However, after loosening 1/4 turn 1st, you will find that you will come back the 1/4 turn, and then another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
good luck.

Thanks John, that answers my question(s)
 
If you have the offset wrench shown in the shop manual, you will not need to remove the rocker arms. The original wrench, made by Snap-on, and sold by Case is no longer available but a scroll through the archives here should get you several suggestions and drawings on how to make one.
 

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