300 Steering questions with pictures.

connor9988

Well-known Member
Location
Central Iowa
Took the steering gearbox apart. One of the teeth is really worn but the other looks okay. The manual doesn't seem to cover this. Any insight? What do I need to do to tighten it up (it has REALLY loose steering.) Also the gear box was full of grease instead of gear oil but I'm sure that was a common farmer change.
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Sometimes you can turn the studs 90 deg to contact the cam with the unworn sides but that stud is too far gone and you will not be able to adjust the backlash property.

According to the parts manual the 2 stud lever was only used on the early 1956 model 310 utility tractors up to serial nr 6054761. All the model 311 tractors were factory 3 stud levers as far as I can tell.

The 2 stud levers are prone to breaking due to uneven stud wear and won't take much abuse as only 1 stud is in full cam contact for most of the span whereas the 3 stud lever has 2 studs in mostly full contact.

The 2 stud lever in pic 1 is out of my 1956 310 That was broken on the right side when bought it and broke again later on the other side where the white line is. I replaced it with a 3 stud lever out of a 311 (pic 2&3).

Pic 4&5 is the backlash adjustment. I don't have time tonight and probably not tomorrow to hunt up and write the adjustment procedure. Maybe someone else can help with that sooner.

Definitely get 2 new studs, don't try to go cheap. If I were you and expected to work and depend on the tractor, I would be looking for a 3 stud lever.

Joe
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Wowser Joe, all the knowledge, a thorough explanation and great pictures. That why this forum is the greatest. gobble
 
What program do you use to get the text and arrows on your photos? I'm using Windows 7 and I think all I have is Paint, which I can't seem to figure out......I do have a version of Office 2013 installed, but do I need "Publisher" or something like that? Thanks
 
Joe, out of curiosity which parts manual do you have? Mine is RI A324 and it indicated the 2 stud lever was used in all models except high clearance units up to 6055313. Lee
 
I recently replaced 2 of 3 on my 311B. Those pins are held by a friction fit and require a press to remove and install. I would agree that getting a 3 pin gear would be an improvement, but I wonder if the worm gear would still work. Don't tighten all the bolts until you know that you're on the correct spline. If not, the unit will steer more one way than the other. My pins came from Steiner Tractor Parts in Michigan.
 
Lee, I have RI A324-6M date 1-59. I am looking at pages 1327 models 302-312 3 stud lever G13412.

Page 135 model 300-310 2 stud lever G13015 tractors prior 6055313 an 3 stud G13287 lever after. So that may be what I am missing, the 300 may indicate all tractors in the series except 302 & 312? What do you think?

I think connor9988 has a 312?

Joe
 
caseman, you have to be careful with the cover assemblies if you want the tractor to steer in the direction the wheel is turned. Pic is model 310 & 311 wfe. I don't know which cam is for the 312 nfe.

The studs are a light interference fit and can be tapped in without a press if you are careful. Studs that are loose in the bores should be replaced with studs that have oversize shanks.

With new studs the adjustment should be backed all the way off before the cover is installed.

Joe
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I have windows 7 and use paint. I am in a hurry this morning, maybe can get you going on that later in another post.

Joe
 
Thanks Joe - I'm pretty much tied to the inside @ the moment as I just had a knee replaced 2 weeks ago. I spent some time putzing with Paint this morning and I do believe I've got it. It appears to work great.
 
Thank you for all the information. This all really helps as I was in the dark on it. It is a 311 and I will be looking into getting the new pins. These both were very loose in their bore as well.
 
Mine is dated 11-67. I always get curious when there is different information out there. I know that there is some discrepancy in the serial # breaks at times. Considering the amount of numbers they are dealing with when they print them it would be easy to overlook something. I would hate to be the proof reader for the parts manual. Lee
 
Oldproudvet, I had to get after market parts for my knee a year ago. At about two weeks in I would imagine the physical therapy girls are doing their best to make you cry, but stick with it and you won't be sorry. A year later and I'm chasing around little calves like I haven't been able to for years. And my computer education stuff that I was going to do while I recovered only got about half done. I guess the other half will wait till the other knee needs reworked. Haha.
 
I agree with the proof reading. Case service manuals have many errors. The hydraulic sections in the service manuals in some manuals appear to be a figment of someone's imagination.

In any event you have a later revision of R.I. A324 and revisions are generally issued to correct mistakes and update part numbers and/or service procedure.

I believe you are right re the 2 & 3 stud levers. Corrects my thinking.

Joe
 
You're right the PT girls bring the tears to your eyes, but not the same kind of tears that were there years ago though...............
 
I am not sure we are on the same page as far model is concerned. I thought you had a 312 that had been in a fire. In any event the 311 & 312 share most or all the same steering parts discussed in this thread. The 311 cam is LH but I haven't a clue if the 312 is L or R.

This is the backlash adjustment page, works for all the 300 & 300B tractors. If not legible, post back when you get your new studs and I will write a quick & dirty for you.

Joe
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caseman46 I think this info is more what you are looking for. The p/n's stated here are stamped into the cam.

When I bought the 3 stud lever, the cover/cam assembly off the 311 was included. I saw that the 311 cam was LH and I needed a RH for the 310. I sat them up just as in that other pic I posted and did some rough cam measurement. I couldn't see any real difference. I reinstalled the original 310 cover/cam assembly with the new 3 stub 311 lever. The backlash set real good.

That was about 8 years ago. I've had the cover off only once since a couple years ago and the studs only had shiny spots for wear and it was down on the studs like I would expect from proper backlash.

So now this a 310 with a power steering cylinder mounted down in front of the axle. The only real steering torque on the studs is moving the cylinder control valve actuator and some extra torque overriding the cylinder movement at times.

On a tractor w/o power steering or with the steering shaft Char-Lynn torque convertor like the 311's have, the full torque of steering ends on the studs. So that may make a difference as to whether you could get away with interchanging the cams successfully.

Joe
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Thank you all for the pictures and information. I have gotten a hold of a 3 pin variant for my 300 and I will keep you all up to date on the 300 progress.

Joe, the serial plate says its a 311. Perhaps some parts were changed at some point?
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Maybe the front end has been changed or model nr tag. Might be just the way the factory was designating them. The serial nr is early 1956 in the range that 2 stud lever was factory. Pics from 300 round nose parts manual.

Joe
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Dad had a 311 that came with the 2 pin lever. He also bought a 4 row cultivator with it and it also was used as the loader tractor for many years. The two pin lever broke after some years of use and was welded and soon replaced by a 3 pin lever. That lasted and could be in the 311b that replaced it, but that is another story.
 

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