Oil Leaking from somewhere

sjeffries · Mar 10, 2015

I am a new Case 311b owner. I am at a loss for a couple issues I am having. I have uploaded 3 photos to help visualize them: 1. Please help Identifying a plug that is in the side of the tractor. Does it need to be replaced with real plug or is it just a rag to keep out dirt? 2. I have oil leaking under the tractor, but it doesn't look like it is coming from the oil pan. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to start to find it? I have wiped it down, but it is a slow leak and I am not sure if it is hydraulic or engine.

dick benson · Mar 10, 2015

The hole looks like the hole that you check the timing mark. It should have a pipe plug in it, not a rag?? As far as the oil leak, looks like it is coming from the rear of the motor. I don't know what else would leak there. I'm not familiar with 300, but if it is a wet clutch, the clutch area has engine oil in it and there is a gasket between the engine and bell housing that might be leaking. Dick

sjeffries · Mar 10, 2015

Dick, thanks so much for the information. I will get a pipe plug and install it.
I agree that the leak looks to be coming from the rear of the motor. I was wondering if oil could burp out the breather by the dipstick. When it warms up outside, I am going to clean the tractor and see if I can locate the fresh oil. As a last resort, I will use some dye in the oil.

Zach81 · Mar 10, 2015

Oil leak in flywheel housing = Failed rear main seal or carrier gasket. Does the clutch slip in higher gears?

Joe (Wa) · Mar 10, 2015

Yes that is the timing hole, it looks like pic 1 if you were going to time the engine.

If the leak is engine oil, the crankshaft rear main seal in pic 2 is the most likely the leaker.

Pic 3. There are also a welch plug on the rear end of the camshaft and oil galley pipe plug that can be an unlikely leaker.

Pic 4. If it is the torque tube oil that you are using for hydraulics, The leak is in the hydraulic pump & tachometer drive assembly. Pic 4 is the location in the bell housing aft of the engine clutch.

Pic 5 is a breakdown of the hydraulic pump & tachometer drive assembly. The leakers are usually the shaft seals. Note that the aft shaft seal has 2 p/n's. The one you use pends the tractor serial nr but if you don't have that, you can march by the number on the bearing. I highly recommend you renew the ball bearing as part of the repair.

Joe

sjeffries · Mar 10, 2015

I do not remember the clutch slipping at all in high or low gear. As I read your comment about the failed rear main seal, I did have issues with the hydraulics level dropping and know the hydraulic oil moves from the front to the back PTO with use of the rear lever. It got to the point last fall where I could not raise or lower the bucket until I shut the tractor off and added hydraulic oil, but I did not think it was related to what I was thinking was an engine oil leak.
In the one photo, you can see oil in the flat pan straight down from where the seat is. I apologize in advance if I am complicating the issue even more.

Joe (Wa) · Mar 10, 2015

Don't plug the timing hole. If the accumulated oil doesn't leak out at the flywheel cover aft of the oil pan, it will build up and ruin your clutch friction disc quickly.

You are better off letting the oil drain if you need to use the tractor short term. Right now the pressure plate and flywheel are slinging most of the oil away from the clutch friction disc but eventually it start slipping and ruin the friction pads.

The bottom line is there is no alternative to repairing the leak.

Joe

sjeffries · Mar 10, 2015

Great description and I really appreciate the photos. Any suggestions where I go to buy a plug button or can I use a simple plastic pipe plug?
I have a hoist and barn, and work on cars and ATVs, but am new to tractors. Does replacing the rear main seal require splitting the tractor?

Joe (Wa) · Mar 10, 2015

Yes you need to split to replace the engine rear main seal or pull and replace seals in the hyd pum & tach drive. Try to determine where the oil is coming from before splitting if you can. Some times both are leaking and the engine oil dilutes and hides a much larger hyd oil leak.

To check the hyd pump & tach drive seal leak after the split have the torque tube full and clean and dry the inside of the bell housing. Most times you can see an oil weep from the front seal area.

Push in plugs like used on electrical boxes will work but the newer plugs are shallower and have a poor grip. The plug is just a dirt cover but if you have mice, that is a favorite entrance to build a nest in the bell housing.

Joe

Scruffy1 · Mar 10, 2015

I have the same leak on my 350. Thank you for the helpful pixs and info. It sounds like a fun project . . . after I get the back end reassembled.

BarryfromIA · Mar 10, 2015

Joe has it right. My clutch was slipping when I split mine and the clutch looked like new. I soaked it in a pan of Stanosol for a few days while gathering parts and then sprayed it with brake cleaner. A good bearing store may be able to order the seals. They are a CASE only part no. Clutch is working great.

sjeffries · Mar 10, 2015

Thanks for all the good feedback. Now I just need a month of 26 hour days.

Oil Leaking from somewhere

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