Some Bad Luck and Some Good Luck

1370rod

Well-known Member
Even if you have serviced and drove 70 series tractors for over 40 years you can still get stuck with a bad one. I bought this tractor on a online auction. I should have taken the time and inspected it first. Oh well, water over the bridge now. I could see the axle housings had never been removed. Knowing sun gear failure in the final drives was a common problem on these tractors I decided to remove the axle housings and inspect them. Glad I did because the teeth were starting the flake off chips. I then pried on the differential carrier and found that to be to loose. So I then tore the back off the tractor and removed the carrier and found the RH brg to be badly damaged. With the carrier out I took that apart only to find it was broken also. Now it looked like it would take a small fortune to fix this thing. I was lucky that the area salvage yard had a excellent carrier assembly that they sold to me at a unbelievable low price. First pic is the bad carrier brg, second is the damaged carrier and third is the good used replacement. Rod.
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Rod, the last pic does not appear to me as a factory modified carrier housing The cupped bronze thrusts were much thicker, , requireing the concaved machined surfaces to be turned out to larger circumfrence, to allow thicker cup shaped thrust bearings and also had to bore the thrust bearing surface deeper for the side gears, to accept thicker thrusts with oil reliefs in them.The replacement planitary gears were also made of a different type of metal, and the 3 spoke planetary gear shaft was different. (sorry, I have forgotten some of the exact details).
That factory rework on 90 series tractors was a contributing factor leading to our decision to close down our dealership in 1986.
Perhaps that diff is out of a 12-1570 but it's very similar, to the 90 series.
Loren
 
Hi Loren, I forgot to mention this is a 1370 tractor. Yes I have seen and done many updates with the thrust washers that have tabs. I could have done that to this carrier but have chosen not to. By cutting out the extra material to allow use of the ticker washers weakens the thin end of the carrier and they are even more prone to breakage. I have found by using the thin washers and gluing them in place using JB weld to be a better solution. Those thin washers wore out quickly because they turned with the gear and rubbed against the casting. I have taken a couple apart with the glued in washers after many years they still looked good. Rod.
 
The JB weld on the thrusts is an interesting concept. Never heard of that senario here, but I can see it helping.
Just to tease your mind,--- would it be worthwhile to take a dremal and lightly cut several spiro shaped shallow groves in the thrusts to draw in some lube between them and the side gears.
Just a thought.
Loren
 
Loren that certainly would not hurt a thing, by putting some marks in them would give a area for a little oil to seep in. Rod.
 
That’s interesting Rod that you JB weld the washers in place.

I have replaced a damaged cage with the up-dated thicker washers with the tabs. The milling work was done by Brian at Elmer’s repair.

He has a slick way of milling for the washers with out making the additional cuts for the tabs.
He can accomplish the task on a lathe. The one he did for me was right on the money clearance wise.

The recommended upgrade has been to mill one side of the cage to accommodate the thicker washer and to use a different gear for the other side.

I have learned from another dealer that they milled both sides the required .060 (allowing for wear) to accommodate the thicker washers, use the original gears and have never had any trouble.

However the man they use makes a living out of building transmissions for race cars
 

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