530CK Seat Disassembly

mfallavol

New User
Has anyone taken apart a 530CK seat assembly? I think my rubber springs are original, meaning there really isn't much left.

Problem is I can't get the arms (shafts) out of the rubber springs. I've been spraying PB-Blaster on the pins for days and trying to drive them out without any movement whatsoever. I'm trying to avoid heat since that will certainly destroy the bushings which all seem fine so far. Not to mention the burning rubber fumes and smoke.

Any words of experience and wisdom out there? I might try cutting them off with a dremel if nothing else. I just don't want to ruin any other parts.

-- Mike
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:21 02/26/15) Have you removed the roll pins?

Well the pins I'm trying to remove aren't roll pins, they are solid. Here is a picture of one of them.
mvphoto16786.jpg


For as much banging as I've done on these, I can't believe they haven't moved even a few thousandths. It makes me think I'm missing something.

I've ground one end of the other pin down below the surface of the rubber spring's metal sleeve and it still won't budge.
-- Mike[/img]
 
I think I would cut the spring off, and cut the pin of flush to get the unit disassembled. Then you can get the arms in a press to drive the pin out, or drill the pin out.

The pins are in an awkward spot, but if you can get the assembly taken apart, you will get the pin out...eventually.
 
Those pins have a slight taper to them. They need to be driven out the opposit direction they went in. As said, very awkward spot to get a punch in. Grind them flush with die grinder or dremel, and then you should be able to disassemble the suspension, and remove them in your vise.
Loren
 
(quoted from post at 15:24:23 02/26/15) Those pins have a slight taper to them. They need to be driven out the opposit direction they went in. As said, very awkward spot to get a punch in. Grind them flush with die grinder or dremel, and then you should be able to disassemble the suspension, and remove them in your vise.
Loren

A slight taper...hmm. One side was a bit mushroomed; that is the side I ground off.

Anyway, I got a bit further though not there yet. I was able to cut off the springs without grinding down the pins. I'll give them some time with PB-Blaster and see If I can get them out. Otherwise I suppose I'll have to drill them out.

mvphoto16800.jpg


What I don't understand is why they used tapered pins here when roll pins should be plenty strong enough.

Does anyone have experience with the bushing and pin kits that they sell on this site and others? $40 is super pricey for such a simple kit but finding the right sizes elsewhere might be difficult. I was going to try to get away with using the existing bushings but they are copper, two are missing and as you can see, the others didn't come out unscathed.

-- Mike
 
They are what is called a "grooved taper pin," and are made of soft steel. They bend, and they peen over the edges of holes easily. Actually, they deform and make a force fit when you drive them into place. Case made extensive use of these pins whenever they needed to have a no-play joint in parts with a through hole. They also used them where a hard roll pin would wear out softer steel parts.
 
That may be difficult to support firmly enough but I have used a
good air chisel with punch tools to remove really difficult pins over the years. We had an excellent Snap On chisel and you can do impressive things with them and they have different size punch bits.
 
Just to follow up, PB-Blaster didn't do the trick. All it took was some heat. I gave them a minute with the OA torch and they came out pretty easily. With all of the rubber already removed it didn't even smoke or make a mess. Its all back together and oh what a difference. I'll try to remember to follow up with a final picture.

Thanks guys.

- Mike
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top