Case 1370 buying piston rings.

I am about to buy pistion rings for my Case 1370. Engine: A504BDT

I found 2 sets with 6 rings on ebay.
One of them costs 173 $ and the other one costs 362 $.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370414630067?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301218916640?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Wy this big difference in price?
Is the cheap one bad?
What should piston rings cost?
 
Given the choices, I would get the cheaper ones, as they are made by a reputable company. No info on where the other ones are from.


That said, by the time you pay for rings and gaskets, you might as well do an in-frame overhaul. It would be terrible to go to all that work and find you had a bad O-ring or pin-holed sleeve in a year... Should be $1200 or a touch more.
 
Ok, thanks!
My english is not the best, but I guess you need I should replace all parts in the engine, like pistons and sleeves?
Yes, I have been thinking about that too, but that sort of kit cost about 1500 and for some reason it cost almost the same to ship to Sweden. (do not know why it is so expensive)
And the reason for why I do this is mostly because of the cylinder heads, the valve guies are bad and leak oil ( and this parts is not included in a overhaul kit), so I thought I will replace the piston rings at the same time, when I already have removed the heads. The compression test was quite good, and the engine oil pressure too, so I believe the in engine is in a good shape.
And I only use this one for about 100 hours/year.
 
I have had it when I removed a head the sleeve oring lost tension or moved and leaked when I replaced the heads and had to go back through motor a second time. If heads are off and new rings going in I would definitely put in new sleeve o-rings. My 2 cents.
 
Ok, thanks for telling me!
Is it easy to get the sleeves out?
Is there a risk that I will not get the sleeve in exactly right position ( to low or to high) when I put them back?
 
That's a lot of extra money for shipping! I would think twice at that price too. But doing the o-rings at this point won't be much more and will give you a chance to check the sleeves for pitting. It's always hard to know where to draw the line isn't it? I did a 504 in a 2394 about 18 months ago, that was a complete in frame tho because the o-ring failed and got water in the oil. Also found broken rings when we took it apart. Good luck on your project.
 
Yes, I will replace the O-rings on the sleeves, hone the sleeves, new piston rings, replace all gaskets on the top of the engine, and the oil pan gasket, replace some or all of the valve guides, because here is the big problem. Some exhaust valve guides are bad, and the valve steam wiggles and leaks oils and exhausts.
Maybe I will have to replace some valves and seats too. I have never done this before so this will be something I will need some help with.
"Pitting"? Do you mean that I should check if it is pits on the outside of the sleeve?
I have also been thinking about if I should replace the main bearings. But I checked the oil pressure before I started to remove parts, and I think it was good. About 4 bar at high rpm and 1,5 bar when it was warm and down to 500 rpm.
But if I replace them too, should I replace the connecting rod bearings too?
The tractor have been in use for about 6000 hours, according to the hour-meter, but I do not know if that is correct. Last year a renew the powershift, and it was in really good shape, except from the thing that was broken.
 
While you are their send the heads in for a total rebuild and pressure testing, also put in (new) bearings, piston rings, sleeves with O-rings, head gaskets and other gaskets for upper motor and oil pan gasket, install a coolant filter assembly if it does not have one already. Make sure that you clean the block where the O-rings sit in the block and where the counter bore on the block is. After cleaning the block and u are ready to put the sleeves in put a sleeve in without the O-rings on it just to see how it will sit in the block and counter bore area. Just make sure everything is Clean. You will be farther a head if you just over haul the motor mainly the sleeves.
 
The biggest pain I thought was rolling the front end out from under the tractor and the heavy oil pan. The sleeves are not to bad to get out I made myself a puller to pull them up an out and works well. While pulling them out some may come out quite well but some will need a little tap from the under side while u have tension on them but don't hit or bump anything else under their while tapping on them.
 
When pulling the pistons you can check and see if it still has the original bearings in it and also if they have any wear but my thought if your their replace them. Their are #s on one side and they should tell u if they are originals or not, if not or cant tell sometimes their is a stamp on the end one or two ears on the crank if it has different bearings in them then original.
 
Ok, thanks!
I will hone the sleeves, because they are really good.
I am not sure about the bearings yet, because the oil pressure is good. But if I order the bearings, should I order the standard size then?
Can I be sure the sleeves will be in the right hight, so I not need any shims if I put in the same position?
In my spare part catalog, on the same page as the sleeves, o-rings and pistons, Loctite is in the list. Do I need Loctite for any part here??
Did you have any grease on the big O-rings when you put the sleeves back in?
Why Is coolant filter used on some of these tractors? I have never seen it on any other tractor. What is it good for?
I will replace the valve guides on the heads, because that was the main reason why I am doing all this. Some of the exhaust valve guides were really bad, but the valve steam were as new.
 
Ok, thanks!
I know that one sleeve (number 4) has been replaced by the former owner, and I could see that when i removed the heads, because I could see the honing cross-pattern. But I do not know if the bearings were replaced et that time. And the oil pressure seems to be good. The tractor has been in use for 5300 hours.
Is it possible to see if the bearings are good or bad when I get them out?
 
Yes their is. If they have any brass showing on the inside of them replace them, 2 if they look more wore on one side then the other, 3 not smooth. Their should be a factory stamping part # on one of the ends of the bearings an that should have the factory number. But if not just to warn u their are three different size bearings Factory, 10, 20, 30 if im correct.
 
(quoted from post at 02:14:58 02/18/15) Yes, I will replace the O-rings on the sleeves, hone the sleeves, new piston rings, replace all gaskets on the top of the engine, and the oil pan gasket, replace some or all of the valve guides, because here is the big problem. Some exhaust valve guides are bad, and the valve steam wiggles and leaks oils and exhausts.
Maybe I will have to replace some valves and seats too. I have never done this before so this will be something I will need some help with.
"Pitting"? Do you mean that I should check if it is pits on the outside of the sleeve?
I have also been thinking about if I should replace the main bearings. But I checked the oil pressure before I started to remove parts, and I think it was good. About 4 bar at high rpm and 1,5 bar when it was warm and down to 500 rpm.
But if I replace them too, should I replace the connecting rod bearings too?
The tractor have been in use for about 6000 hours, according to the hour-meter, but I do not know if that is correct. Last year a renew the powershift, and it was in really good shape, except from the thing that was broken.

Your High RPM reading looks good but 1.5 bar is lower than I would like to see it, I would replace all bearings and have the oil pump checked at least.

I suspect worn bearings as the oil pumps are very durable on those engines. I beat a dead horse on here about proper oil for those engines so just check the shaft for wear and try to get proper oil clearance. 25 lbs idle is a bit low for my liking. I don't feel that 58 lbs down to 25 is acceptable variation.

If the bearings are down to copper its time for new especially since you are doing all the other work. A major would not be complete reusing bearings.
 
Ok, thanks!
What should the oil pressure be with warm engine at 500 rpm?
( 500 rpm is lower than the idle speed that is 700-750 rpm. I just made it go slower to check the pressure at lower rpm.) I think it was about 1,6 or 1,7 bar at 700-750 rpm.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top