Case 1370 bad valve guide?

One of the exhaust valve guides is very bad, I think. The engine loses oil, almost 2 liters on a long day.
I made a compression test, and all cylinders got 25 bar, except number 4, who got 26 bar, and that one was renewed by the former owner.
I took the valve cover away, and it was very dirty on the last spring, and inside the cover. It a exhaust valve.
Is this because the guide is worn?
Or can it only be the sealing?
I can pull the top of the valve a bit. ( faar to much I believe.)
How do i know if it is to much without taking the valve away?
 
Picture. The bad valve is dirty.
a182800.jpg
 
The valve doesn't even look centered under the rocker, the valve stem appears to be offset to the outside, indicating a lot of wobble in the stem..............
 
Since you have the valve cover off, pull the rocker shaft and if you don't already have one get a cheap automotive valve spring compressor. You will need the piston up TDC, remove spring and keeper. Wiggle valve, that will be a certain answer.
I don't know when Case started but at some point in time many of those engines had perfect circle valve stem seals. HTH Tom
 
When you see soot deposits like that on the valve spring you know the guide is worn badly. Several things contribute to that like a rotator not spinning valve and rocker arms that need resurfacing. No easy fix, the guide will have to be replaced to properly correct problem, Rod.
 
Someone said that it would be enough to just get a new rubber sealing. But I guess that would not be enough?
I can wiggle the valve alot even without taking the spring away.
Do I have to get a new valve too, or only a new guide?
There are 12 valves and guides in the engine. This is the bad one. Should I replace all of them or only this one?
How will I know if the rest is bad too?
Can I do some measuring?
What part is making the valve turn? How can I know if it turns or not?
a182836.jpg
 
I can wiggle the valve without taking the spring away. How much is it ok to be wiggled, or should it be possible to wiggle it at all?
"circle valve steam seals"? Do you mean the black rubber sealings on the valve steam?
 
Could it be a good idea to try to get a complete working cylinder head from another Case instead of doing all the work with renewing the guide?
 
Thatś the way this engine is made. The valve steam is often not in the center. I think I can wiggle the top of the valve stem about 0,5 mm. (= 0,02 inches)
 
The guides are easily replaced once the head is removed, that is most of the work. Once the new guides are pressed in I think they are reamed for proper size, the valve and seat will need grinding to true them up or replacing. Most repair shops here in the US no longer do head work, that is left to the machine shop that specialize in cly head work. Often when these heads are removed you find out they need to be surfaced so they go to the machine shops anyway. Rod.
 
Ok.
Do you know some shop I can buy valve guides from, and ship to Sweden? What should they cost?
I saw today that number 8, also exhaust valve, is bad too.
I saw no rubber sealings on the valve steam. My other Case 1370, who has the serialnumber right before or after this one, has sealings. But that one has got the heads renewed ones by the former owner. So maybe they were installed then?
 
Henrik, I am sure they cost less than $10.00 each, I do not have the info with me now. If you are going to remove all heads replace all 6 ex guides. The seals for the valves are a small seal on valve stem hidden by the retainer. If you can see them they are not install correctly or someone has installed umbrella style seals and that is OK. I can send you guides if you wish, but I do not know how to ship to Sweden nor have any idea of the cost, Rod.
 
Ok!
I do not know either how to ship. Maybe a ordinary package at the postoffice?
But if I replace all of them I should replace both intake and exhaust guides? that will be 12. Or are the exhaustguides used to be more worn?
 
Most of the time the ex are worn the worst but many times both in and ex are routinely replaced. I could send you 12 and then you would be covered if you need them or save 6 for a future repair, Rod.
 
Henrik, Usually the valve stems are OK. Sometimes of course the valve or seat is worn badly and then they need replacing. You will not know that until the heads are taken apart and inspected. After giving this some thought what you should do for parts is put a post on this site asking help from John S. or Don L. for the guides. I am sure they have them available and are very helpful merchants. They sell and ship parts for a living and both do a great job. Rod
 
the big cases have 3 seperate heads you cant go swapping them willy nilly with other heads they have to be machined to the same specs or when you tighten them down you could break the manifolds and i'll bet that water manifold will be the hardest one to find.
 
spec is .0015 for a new guide to stem clearance.
this is all machine shop work.
once guides are replaced the valves must be reground or replaced and reground.
 
By the way, what can happen if I only replace the guides, and do nothing with the valves and seats?
The compression test I made shows it is good. I only use this tractor about 100 hours/ year or even less. I will try to not spend to much money on it.
The shop manual I have, called "Manual No. C-32" does not says anything about doing something with valves or seats under the chapter about replacing the guides.
 
By replacing the guide only you move the valve back to a centered position. With the worn guide the valve is able to rock around a bit and not seating as squarely as it will with the new guide. So I guess what I am trying to say is now the seat is worn a bit to one side and you run the risk of it leaking even more by replacing the guide only and not trueing up the valve and seat. I guess as long as the tractor is running OK, you could just continue to run it until a problem occurs and then repair the heads. Rod.
 
Ok.
Is it easy to narrow the seats, or should I replace them?
Do I have to do something more if I replace them?
Is it possible to only replace the seats, or should I replace the valve at the same time?
 
Yes! We have DHL. Do you know what it would cost to ship to Sweden, and what time it will take?
Last time I bought something from the USA I think it was delivered by someting called UPS or something like that.
 
I went to the CIH parts manual and the shipping weight for one guide is 0.467 lbs. x12 would be 5.60 lbs . i dont know how much it would be to ship to sweden but with this info you could call and check the rates . i have seen the DHL truchs in the states again i had heard they left the U.S. a few years ago
 
Ok, thanks.
Is it possible to use "USPS Priority Mail International"?
I bought some parts on ebay earlier and they shipped it.
Do you also have a head gasket set like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251706526074?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And piston rings for all six pistons??
If so, what is the price, and what is the price for the guides?
Do you have seats and valves?
 
Valves and seats my be OK, you will not know until the heads are removed so you can inspect them. Sometimes none have to be replaced if they look good after grinding. Rod.
 
Can I see what degree it is on the valves, 30 or 45, before I take them out?
I know it is 30 degree on later modells. This one is from 1976, serial number 8804994 and engine serialnumber 10012344.
 
I have now checked the valves, and it was 30 degree on intake and 45 on exhaust.

Should I install the new typ of sealings on the valve steams? The black "rubberhats". Itś not there from the beginning, but it has been later installed on my other Cade 1370. I do not know if it better to have them or not?
I also find out that in my spare part catalog, LOCTITE is in the list on the same page as the piston, rings, sleeves and O-rings. What part would need loctite?
 

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