Case 830CK Dual Remotes Trouble

I've got a Case 830 CK that is having trouble with the top left hydraulic remote. The tractor has 2 remotes on top and 2 on the bottom. The inner lever controls the 2 remotes on the bottom. Moving the lever rearward pressurized the lower right coupling, moving the inner lever forward pressurizes the lower left.
The lower right operates as it should, but the lower left if I move the lever as it should be moved, loads up that side and seems to over pressurize and the cylinder won't move. But if I move it very slowly it will move the cylinder at a very slow rate. Pick up the pace and it loads up again. I have to wait a few seconds after it loads up for it to operate from either right or left. Any suggestions on what to look into?
 
(quoted from post at 00:46:17 01/19/15) First thing I would do is check/change your male and female couplings. One or both may not be opening enough to allow full flow.
Loren
Wow! I hadn't thought about that, thank you! I've been wanting to change them out from the vintage Case females on the tractor to standard Pioneer fittings anyways. I suppose now would be as good of time as any to do that.

Do you know if I will need thread adapters to change out to Pioneer? And if I do where they are available?
Thanks!
 
Yes you will need adapters. If TSC, or your friendly CNH dealer doesn't have them, you can go to a place that makes hyd hoses and have the hose ends cut off and std 1/2" npt male ends put on for the pioneer couplings.
Loren
 
You can also buy adapters to go from pioneer to the Case female ends on the tractor. Case ends are a good coupler, I've never had bother with them and I do use the adapters. Easier than changing hoses, etc.
 
If I'm not mistaken the fittings the hoses connect to on the tractor are 1/2" flare, I'm in the house now but I think the hose has the female coupler at the end, then goes into hose then switches to metal tube before the 1/2" flare nut. Will the hydraulic s shop be able to just make up the hoses new to fit on the tractor and ends for the pioneer fittings?
Or is that what you meant?
 
If you are determined to use pioneer couplers instead of the Case couplers, Case-IH used to have a adapter to go from the fine thread to coarse thread to use different couplers. Don't know if they are available anymore.
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:15 01/19/15) If you are determined to use pioneer couplers instead of the Case couplers, Case-IH used to have a adapter to go from the fine thread to coarse thread to use different couplers. Don't know if they are available anymore.

Thanks I'll check with the dealer then. I was just wondering about changing out complete with hoses, because I have one hose that is bad, so thought I'd just swap it all out. And yes, I'm determined to go pioneer.
 
have new hoses made with 1/2" male pipe for the new Pioneers to screw on (and yes the fittings out of the control valve are standard fittings),, the kits from CASE were almost a 100.00 each the last time I bought them,,, and that was years ago, even though it is not factory I change the one I use most to Pioneers as well
 
(quoted from post at 10:24:16 01/19/15) have new hoses made with 1/2" male pipe for the new Pioneers to screw on (and yes the fittings out of the control valve are standard fittings),, the kits from CASE were almost a 100.00 each the last time I bought them,,, and that was years ago, even though it is not factory I change the one I use most to Pioneers as well

Yeah, some of the original parts can be pricey. Thanks for the info.

Another thing I wanted to throw out there is....

Do you guys have problems with pressure built up at the female coupler on the tractor, making it impossible to plug into it with the male coupling? And how do you work around that?
 
standing at the rear of the tractor you can "bump" the hyd control at the valve and release pressure,, or even easier is to shut off the tractor and work both controls each direction several times, I have done it so long I can do it easy with it running, you can also install couple under pressure Pioneer couplers, they cost more but will couple under pressure most times
 
Good info! Thanks! And when you say "bump at the valve" are you meaning actually at the valve and not the levers next to the fender? I've tried doing it at the levers and was not successful. But, I don't think I've tried it with the engine off. I like the idea of the pioneer couplers you just mentioned too!
 
at the valve you have better control to just 'bump" it enough to relieve the pressure,, start with shutting it of first,, all the hook up issues go away as long as you did not leave the implement lines pressured when you unplugged them,,,, this is a good time to shut off and work the levers as well to relieve pressure before you unhook
 
Understood, thanks again. Now all I need is some time off work so I can remove the hose assemblies and take them to the hydraulic shop.
I'll let ya, ll know how it goes.
 
I took the hoses all off today after work and dropped then off at the hydraulics shop. Not sure when I'll get back over there to pick them up, but they said they'd have them ready tomorrow morning.
 
Another quick question. On the dipstick for the hydraulics, it is numbered 1 2 3 4 5 6. The one is at the top and six at the bottom of the stick. What do the numbers represent? Quarts, gallons?
 
think gallons but make sure if has not been slid down,, it will let you run low on oil, make sure you keep it FULL and over full is Much better than low,,,
 
Thanks!
If anyone would like the Case coupling bodies, I brought them home from the shop. Let me know, you just pay shipping from 64019 zip code.
Trying to figure out how to post pics. Guess I'll need to put them on PB, or Google drive


Huh, doing something wrong can't get it to show up.

mvphoto15372.jpg
 

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