470 Diff Lock Seals

1370rod

Well-known Member
Does anyone know if the small seals in the RH side gear of a 470 with diff lock can be replaced successfully without removing the gear itself. The book is vague and does not cover just the seal replacement. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated, thanks. Rod.
 
Just did my 570,was able to take the pto unit out and get the nut off the bull gear,then take the axle housing bolts out to get the axle housing out far enough to get the bull gear to drop off the axle,this left enough room to get the bull pinion out.Its not an easy job.
 
Rod,
I have never replaced the diff lock seals on a 470 but have replaced hundreds of diff lock seals on 580's. I'm not sure if they are similar or not but I would thread a long sheet metal screw between the the rubber lip on the seal and the gear. Then take vise grips on the head of the screw and yank the old seal out. Case had a tool to install the new seals but a person could make a tool with the right size pipe. Any time we replaced these seals, we would install 2 new ones. Hope this helps,
Randy
 
Rod,
Have done hundreds I suppose in 50 yrs, Take a old right angle o ring pick you don't mind sacrificing, grind the tip down till it will turn 90 deg after sliding it under the seal lip, thin the sides down till it goes under fairly easily, insert, turn 90 deg, use a pair of side cutter to grip the tool and use the end of the shaft as a pry point.

We have a driver but you can make one easily, take a piece of exhaust tubing that will slide inside the side gear, before you extract the old seal, set the pipe against the seal and put a stainless steel hose clamp to stop the driver at the proper depth and tighten it tight enough so it don't slip, then remove the old seal, clean the bore and shaft thoroughly and install the new seal.

I also used to install two seals but the seal design was changed to a good spring loaded lip and the lip sticks way out past the inner edge of the shell and installing a second seal will just drive the rubber lip up against the new inner seal and destroy the lip on the second seal.

mEl
 
I did my 580 C 2 years ago just like VC did his. I drilled a pilot hole in the seal 1/16", and used a screw the right length so the screw pulled it out as it was threaded in. Make darn sure the screw is centered in the space so the sealing surface is not damaged. Do some of the shims on your brake shafts need to be removed to tighten the bearings, and ring gear/pinion clearance? Enjoy the cozy feeling under there!
 
Thanks guys for all the great hints. I feel like a kid again, something different to fix. After 40+ years of repairing the large frame tractors this is the first little guy that I need to make that repair. Rod.
 
When having to "tap" seals in rather then push, I've had the spring that pressures the lip pop off. Now days I always glue the spring against the lip with a bit silcone, works like a charm
 

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