kilgore20

Member
So alittle back story since I am new here. I am a 26 year male and I have been interested in anything with a motor all my life. I love all types of tractors and equipment. I have several projects going right now including a 1974 baracuda, 1961 C85 Mack Fire Engine. I recently came in possession of a Case 885. It was given to me by a family member. I dont know much about case or david brown. I have tried to research as much as possible but it seems impossible. All I know is that its a diesel and its red and white

I know that it ran and was driven to where I picked it up from. I was last started 8 years ago. The bad is that it did not have anything over the stack. I took the injectors out and filled the cylinders full of marvels mystery. Also filled the exhaust and intake till it could not hold anymore. I put just under a gallon of marvels in it. I am very familiar with mechanic work and not scared to take it on.

Here is my Questions.
1.I have looked every where for the ID tag. I cant find it anywhere. Is there a serial number or anything stamped on it?

2.Is it truly a Case 885? I ask cause i cant find a serial number
and it seems to have another insignia under the Case Sticker.

3.Where do I get parts or manuals? I know this one depends on
what the serial# is.

4.Whats yalls comments, questions, concerns, critiques.
 
Scroll down on the Discussion Forums to Site Comments. Ask Chris or Kim to let you post pics. they will help you at that point.
The Model and sn# should be stamped in the casting on the topside of the tractor frame near the front, in rather large script.
Loren
 
On a late 885(Orange and White) the serial number will be stamped on top of the frame, even with the center of the engine, on the right side.

The aluminum tag on that era open station DB would have been riveted to the tool box.

Earlier tractors had the tags on the fender or bellhousing. Stampings on earlier tractors would be right side, top of frame, even with the fan.
 
Out side of JC Marleau and cousin RG Martin here, both who have proved extremely trustworthy and knowledgeable, the best source for DR info is the David Brown Tractor Club website- http://www.dbtc.co.uk/index.php

The site is mostly British guys so translation of the language can be a bit bumpy at times, but they know EVERYTHING about DB.

FWIW- Parts for DB are getting easier to access these days thanks to Agcos acquiring Sparex, a good source for DB parts.
 
Here are some pics.
mvphoto13605.jpg


mvphoto13606.jpg
 
So I finally found some numbers (thanks to RGMartin and Marleau). I had to do some scrapping and cleaning to find them but I located them. So here are some pics of what I have found.

Pic #1
Is the Plate on the tool box on the inner fender in the cab.
mvphoto13607.jpg


mvphoto13608.jpg


Pic #2
Is the Numbers on the frame. One is stamped in and the other looks like it used to be raised letters that had been ground down over time.
mvphoto13609.jpg


mvphoto13610.jpg
 
Also have in front of those number it has CONYCHROM in raised lettering. Does any one have any ideas on the meaning.
 
The pics, sugest that it was originally sold as a CASE 380. Pics. show industrial yellow paint under red, and the frond steel nose peice and ROPS structure is definatly from a 380 industrial, and was repainted Power Red and White. over the Industrial Yellow.
Loren
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:52 12/04/14) Also have in front of those number it has CONYCHROM in raised lettering. Does any one have any ideas on the meaning.

They had some castings done by outside suppliers.

The number on the riveted tag is your serial # starts with 110...

Late 1977 or so

The other number is a casting or part number.
 
Case 380? I wonder why someone would paint it red and white and re sticker it.

Is a Case 380 and a Case 885 any different? Seems like they are the same from what I see. The Case 380 just the industrial version.

Is the industrial version worth its weight? I dont have a farm. I would mainly use it around my shop after I found or built a front end loader. I do have a buddy who has some fields I may help to cut sometimes.
 
380 had different tin, different air cleaner, tire and wheel options, the power steering was changed too?

Some 380s had a Mechanical Shuttle, some had the same 12 speed as an 885.


I was told by a DB factory guy that they were shipped here as "skid units(no tires, wheels, tin, cab, fenders...)" and finished by Case.
 
(quoted from post at 23:22:30 12/04/14) Case 380? I wonder why someone would paint it red and white and re sticker it.

Who knows, Probably the same reason someone would paint a new NH baler in JD paint, or paint a Ford in IH red, or paint a DB 990 in Ford blue...


No good reason I can think of.
 
I have decided to tear it down and rebuild the motor. That's if I can't get it freed up. What's a good place to get parts. And Is there a certain numbers or anything of the s/n or engine block that I will need. I have been around tractors along time just never owned on or rebuilt one so new to this. Is there anything I need to watch out for or do to make this easier and any parts I need to stay away from buying.
 
So long as the block isn't cracked, it can be fixed for not a terrible amount of money. Both A&I(John Deere), and Sparex offer reasonably priced, decent quality parts. I believe this site sells both.

The engine is a common 3/55(3 cylinder, 55 cubic inches per hole) same as used in an 885, 1190 and 1194 Case and David Brown. An overhaul kit should be $300 or so. Add to that any machine shop work if it needs the bores cleaned up or a crank ground. Sparex offers new cranks reasonably if it is trashed beyond grinding(can only be ground to .020").

Post back with what you find when you get it apart.

I have had to use a sledgehammer to remove pistons on a badly stuck one of these. You might get lucky and it frees up easily. Pull the cylinder head and drop the oil pan 1st. See what you are dealing with and report back.
 
I didn't even realize it was on the intake. Guess I should quite working so much cause I must have been tired when I wrote that. What numbers would I need to order my rebuild kit. Since this tractor seems to be a hodge podge of parts. Has a DB emblem on the steering wheel. And case 885 on the side but has the skins of a case 380.
 
You need to tear it apart first to see what you need. Might need oversize pistons, and undersize bearings.

As to engine it is 100% DB 885.
 
Congrats on getting your tractor! On tidbit of advice that I will offer is to get a factory shop manual for the tractor if you are going to overhaul it. While manuals can be expensive they are worth it.

Eli
 
So I got the pistons out of the block. The sleeves dont look to bad. But i still need to clean them up and mic them to make sure they are reusable. So my next question is where do yall by yalls parts. I have been looking around for parts but i have not found a kit that contains everything I need.
 
So now I am ready to start working on my tractor. But here is my big dilemma. My left rear wheel is locked up. I have not really tore into it yet to unlock it. My reason is I have my tractor sitting at my part time job (diesel mech) and I hate toting tools all the way across the yard. So I would love to know what kind of breaks and whats yalls secrets to tearing it down I am not looking to fix it with new parts just want to get it rolling. So I can move it back and forth to the shop.
 
It didn't have sleeves when it left the factory, they are just fire rings.

The brakes are simple drums. Did you try tapping the lever backward with a hammer to free it?
 
What do you mean fire rings? I thought it had sleeves in it. All the kits i have looked at have sleeves with them.

And yes I tried to knock the lever back. I didnt even think about moving. I really dread taking the final drive off.


And I am trying to post photos but I forgot how too. And it gives me a error messages. Have lots of photos but no way to post them.
 
If it is really that stuck, you will probably need to get out the Oxy-torch and heat up the casting while knocking the lever with a hammer. It takes a bunch of heat. If the brake is stuck on that hard the final probably won't come off until you free the brake anyway.

If you have to pull the final, they are no big deal, the 3 cylinder ones only weigh a little over 100 pounds. If you pull the right one, make sure you tie down the differential lock pedal before you pull it.

There are steel inserts in the top of the bores that look like sleeves, but they are only 1/2" or so tall(the shop I use leaves them in place and bores right through). The kits you are looking at all come with "repair sleeves", which require boring out the block, then pressing in, then finish boring... making a dry sleeve engine out of an engine that never had sleeves. Unless the block is trashed I think you are better just to bore it to .020" or .040", and install oversize pistons.

A "kit" for one is nothing more than pistons, rings, bearings , and a gasket set.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top