310 steering problems

mcollier

New User
Hello Gentlemen,

I have seen this topic in other older threads here. I have just acquired a 196? Case 310 Utility backhoe. I am having the same issues described in other threads. I have the single piston bendix-style steering system. The steering is very stiff to the right, and somewhat stiff to to left. With a load in the bucket, it is damn near impossible to steer either direction. The pump appears to be working properly, lines are good, cylinder is tight. The actuator has been rebuilt with new seals and bushings. Everything is assembled correctly, according to the Case exploded diagram, I have verified. I can not see any leaks from the system. The ball link control is moving the valve in both directions.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I can take any pictures or videos anyone wants to see of this issue.

Other than a couple leaky cylinders here and there this machine is in great shape. Motor was just rebuilt, and a bunch of hoses replaced.

Thanks,

Matt
 
Two things you didn't mention--- belt tension, second lift front of ground and see if spindle bearings and kingpings are free and not binding.
Loren
 
Thanks for the response...

The pump is gear driven, and the kingpins and spindles are very free, everything moves nicely.

And with the front wheels off the ground, they turn pretty easily.

Matt
 
Been several years since I've been into one of these cylinders and I am in full geezer memory mode now.

Model 310 was factory belt drive hydraulic pump, 310B could be either factory belt or gear drive. I changed my 310 from belt to gear drive when converting from generator to alternator. Post a front & left side pic of your tractor so we can see which model you have.

PIC 1. Not to insult you but lets just check a basic. Hoses connected correctly, upper pump hose to outboard fitting on the cylinder is supply.

PIC 2. First thing, pull the grease fitting at the bottom of the valve actuator and see if that makes any difference. The original zerk had a very short thread and most modern zerks are threaded longer and can bind the actuator. Check that the tie rod is turned into the outer sleeve 3 full turns showing in the slot (disregard 1” setting in my pic).

PIC 3. When the dust cover is on the valve actuator and you're stroking with the drag link it is very difficult to determine that the valve spool is fully stroked. Pull the drag link & dust cover off. Tractor running, stroke the actuator both ways with a screwdriver.

If the wheels swing both right & left equally, the valve spool or actuator may be binding and the drag link is just leaning the ball stud rather than fully stroking the valve spool.

PIC 4. If the valve spool strokes fully in one direction and very little in the other, pin #23 was most like broken on assembly obstructing spool movement.

If the valve spool seems to be stroking near equally in both directions but wheel swing is unequal, you can change the position of the adjustment nut #24 to center the spool in the valve body. I don’t remember which direction to turn the nut relative to wheel swing. My 310 adjusting nut is up tight and backed off between ½ & ¾ turn. This is often a tedious, messy job due to individual cylinder slop and wear. Careful with pin #23 on reassembly, use heavy grease to hold in position while bolting up.

I would verify the pump pressure before trying to adjust the valve spool travel.

PIC 5. Adjustment nut pin broken on assembly. Smaller piece drops down and blocks valve spool in one direction.

Joe
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Joe(WA) walked me through on my 310B with his great pics. On mine it was a mater of adjusting nut #24 (impossible without the pics and help from Joe). Also there were ball bearings missing in the steering gear housing as well as the teeth that the worm gear bites on we're worn (I got new ones from Elmer's repair). This summer I got the 3 u-joints replaced in in the steering shaft they didn't seem bad/loose but, upon removal a bunch of needles were missing and no lube left to speak of. The new joints have grease fittings.
A lot of things contributed, the help on this board is outstanding !
 
Hello Joe,

Thanks for the great post!

I will be actually transporting the tractor to my house on Sunday. I will be able to do more with it once I get it here.

I have checked the hose connections, they are correct.

The grease fitting is out.

The dust cover is missing, has been for years.

The ball stud has about 1/2" of travel total, with the engine off, it moves freely. With the engine running it is harder to move.

The nut on the end of the rod is tightened down fully.

Once I get it here I can set up a pressure test on the pump.

Thanks!

Matt
 
Ok Matt, good luck with it. These cylinders work super when they are working right but a real pain to work on and adjust.

This is a pic of my 311b pump pressure test. I don't have a flow meter but we are dealing with a such low volume that if the pressure tops up quickly when the spindle hits the travel limit, it is good enough for me.

If nothing else is wrong, your slow steering travel in one direction and slower in the other direction can indicate a low pump pressure as there is more force on the piston side of the cylinder as opposed to the rod side. So check which way is slowest relative to which side of the piston the oil pressure is being applied.

I am with you check the pump first.

Joe
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For possible help on replacement parts availability, the 30 series was introduced in 1960. The 300 series (hundred series) in 1955. The 300 was a round nose then and switched to Square eyebrow look in 57 or 58 I believe.

Jim
 

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