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seal on brake Non eagle hitch DC How to??

W

wilson ind

Well-known Member
Repairing brakes on loader tractor 1949 DC. Anyone have number for the seal and or seals? One diagram shows neaproeam and a leather seal. Can the old seal be removed without pulling the bearing retainer plate? The diagram I do have for eagle hitch DC showes an O ring with the bearing retainer plate. Advice please??
 
Here is a page out of my parts book. Note the seal has a new number penciled in. I repaired my 49 brakes several years ago. I also penciled in an oring number but I don't recall the oring details.

One reason seals start leaking is because of end play. End play in a taper roller bearing causes the shaft to gyrate and damage the seal.

I think you will need to pull the support plate to replace the seal and that is a good time to remove the endplay.

To get the endplay correct, I remove all the shims and install the support plate and slightly snug up the bolts to where there is no endplay. Measure the gap and install that thickness of shim.
 
will try again on the picture
a173388.jpg
 
Wilson I looked those orings up awhile back and they are a common oring.
The size is -256.
Material is Buna N.
Durometer (hardness) is Duro 70.
CaseIH has them and no doubt John Saeli does too.

Ron Sa are you setting up a dial indicator on the end of the shaft to check endplay?
 
No. I use a feeler gage to measure the gap where I removed all the shims. If the gap is uneven, I turn/adjust the bolts to even up the gap. I measure the gap in at least three places around.

I think that using a dial indicator and just pushing and pulling on the shaft is less accurate in this specific situation. Two heavy chains are hanging on the shaft. Each of the drive sprockets can have a thrust gap so a light clamping force using the bolts is good to get all the end play removed.

Also, taper roller bearing do not always seat all their rollers against the flange on the inner race until they experience some thrust load AND some rotation.

Unseated taper rollers can affect the measuring process. Therefore, I like to rotate the shaft and bearings several degrees to seat all the taper rollers with the bolts snug. Typically, I would use a handyman jack against a tire lug and move the tractor 3 or 4 inches. Then re-snug the bolts and measure the shim gap.
 
(quoted from post at 07:15:14 11/06/14) There is a shaker pairie west of here,south of
Terre Haute In. Is that where you are??
Click to expand...

Yes I am Wilson. Not many people know the name of the area.
I have some of those orings if you need some but it will be a few days before I'm home.

Ron Sa thank you for the explanation. I'd thought about how to adjust those bearings and get the right end play. It's not as simple as working on a wheel bearing but the way you've done it will work plenty good enough.
Starting out I was just going to replace the seals until I read some posts by you, mEL and others.
Thank you for the help.

Edit : I'm not very good at saying what I mean on the internet but what we're talking about is really bearing preload.
 
C. Amick I guess we were posting at the same time. I'm slower.
Thank you for the cross reference. That will save a lot of time hunting part numbers.
Thank you.
 
Fellows I want to say I just ordered seals brake linings and o ring from John Saeli. His price on seals was cheaper than local! also brake parts were not available local. Because of reasonable prices I decided to replace both side seals even though only one was leaking. Thanks John!
 
More money but Viton o-rings will last way longer
and have broader fluid resistance range.

My 2 cents.

Jim
 
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