Done with clutches goin hydro whos down to help?

619atv

New User
Ok so I posted on here a while back telling you guys I bought an old case 1740.....machine runs strong motor sounds fine but im really having problems getting the power to the wheels.......its an old clutch system and if you have never used one its very different than hydro......my problem (besides the new clutches costing $1000 to replace) is that there is no brake on my machine. I have the factory service manual and it shows that some models came with them and some did not...of course I drove from northern va to ct to buy one that did not.....if you let both handles return to center position the machine will freewheel and roll wherever it wants.....SKETCHY.....I work at a scrapyard running equipment and I see tons of steel including machines with pumps and hydro motors on the regular....
now on to my question......I have two identical hydro motors (made by white.. specs look good) which I am planning to use as drive motors (one for each side of course) upon research it looks like I need two variable drive pumps to run these motors correct?
basically I would mount the variable drive motors where they could be engaged by a clutch (prob 12v electric) and driven by the motor (belt drive) this would serve as a lockout for my drive system......after I get the variable motors spinning the fluid would be piped to the drive motors and the lever(s) on the side of the variable motor(s) should linked to my steering sticks to control forward and reverse on left and right side correct? this looks to be the way the case 1816 is set up and I figured that is the machine where case made the step from clutch to hydro
the hydro system would give me an essential brake in the neutral position as the hydro fluid would hold the machine in place when the sticks weren't being used correct?


I know its a long post but I have been thinking about this for a while and with my access to parts I think it is very possible I could make this work.......I just may need someone with a little more hydro experience under their belt I could ask questions and kick some concepts around with........
Thoughts anyone?
 
Well, it would be a lot easier to fix it and add a parking brake than to convert to hydrostatic drive. You will NEED a parking break for the hydrostatic drive anyway, otherwise it will slowly roll where you do not want. Also, with a hydro drive and no breaks, it will randomly creep/spin if you idle it and climb out.
 
Anything is possible with enough time and money invested. This would be one of those projects 99.9% of people would not attempt because of those reasons. I do not want to discourage you, but purchasing a different machine with hydro could be cheaper in the long run if you placed a value on your time. the 1737-1740's are good solid machines when properly repaired and I myself prefer them at times over the hydro's. They are quieter and smoother to operate. Rod.
 
Yeah I understand a parking break is needed I'm just concerned about the lack of a regular brake....my book shows some models with a foot brake as well as a parking brake but to replace clutches AND find/buy the pieces to replace BOTH brakes would be crazy expensive.....as I said I work at a scrapyard so the pumps I need would pass by me I'm sure of it......I'm just making sure this is what I need....two variable drive pumps and two motors coupled with my steering levers correct?
 
I agree with Rod completely! you will save money by going to a hydro unit, if you think a grand for parts is bad to fix the 1740 it will be cheap when compared to the project you are talking about, I understand you 'need" a brake, then go with a newer machine, if you were close to me I would buy that 1740 in a heart beat, I like them much better than hydro units myself, but I grew up on them
 
. It sounds like you have the determination to be the .1% of people who would tackle this project. I generally agree with other posts. Aside from the costs of all the hoses and fittings etc., a lot of metal fabrication and welding will be required, all in a very difficult location. Before you start, take a look inside a CASE 1835 to see how the parts are interconnected. The engines would at least be similar. A lot of engineering went into the design, selection of components and manufacturing procedures. It would be a shame to get all your components lined up, have your machine cut up and rebuilt, only to discover you need an extra inch of clearance on something critical. Unless you're hauling heaped loads of dry pea gravel, always put your bucket on the ground before getting out of the machine. That would serve as your parking brake.
 
Ok caseman i did it.......got everything mounted lined up and functioning you were one of the few who gave me that glimpse of hope...all that 1% talk made me determined to make this work.....
Thank you.......
i have learned quite a bit about hydraulics tinkering in my tiny carport converted garage......
Bucket lift tilt and curl work fine..drive works ok but i used 16t sprockets for my hydraulic motors and i think im gonna drop to 12t to give it a little more power to push stuff around....moves fat bbt just dosent have the umph .......
I also think im gonna need a cooler for the hydro it does well for 30min or so then you can really feel power loss im thinkn my fluid is getting too hot.....i have a laser and shot a coulpe of valves and fittings with temps around 180-200°f.....what is optimal temp?


I have pics just gotta figure how to post them im on my phone right now but when i get my tablet back up ill be a little better with the posting........
 
mvphoto20247.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:57:08 05/02/15)
mvphoto20247.jpg

If I see properly I am not seeing variable displacement pumps to separate the drive pumps into a RH pump and a LH pump. you are controlling your speed by modulating the positive displacement flow from the old system pump controlling the flow by the valve position. The presence of the angle gearbox is a dead giveaway there.

Case used a similar system on their old Lawn and Garden line and it is not Hydrostatic, rather it is Hydraulic drive. The problem with a heavy duty work system is that lots of heat will be generated as flow ( speed/power) will be controlled by spool position. This system will really produce heat as it is constantly flowing full pump volume and you are steering by diverting flow.

Thee lawn and garden system worked well but was intended for light duty, I, as well as others assumed that you were going fully hydrostatic and had you done so you would have seen the impracticality as the cost of the drive transmissions and hosing would have made the conversion prohibitive.

At any rate, good luck with your endeavor.
 
You are right i did use existing pump and it does create alot of heat......that being said if i install a cooler into my return line would this help?
I would also mention that i work at a scrapyard and the two motors i used for the drives were scavanged from an old tubing bender......i know it sounds crude but it does function and i have used it a bit to grade my yard and tote just about anything around the property......
if i were to come across two variable displacement pumps (that were the same) i would mount them to the motor and belt drive them? With suction and return lines to my resivoir?
Im always looking to upgrade and learn as well..i have had no kind of teaching on hydraulics learning rather by trial and error.....any help or input is greatly appreciated
Thanks...... Rick
 

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