DC Brakes - Need Help

Just brought home a 1949 DC4 with little / no brakes. Pedals feel good, but little effect. Adjusters appeared to be all in. Pull rods are not original and end of 1 is badly bent but I don't think thats the whole problem. Pulled left side apart (right is behind belt pulley - will try to get to that one today).

Friction material is oiled/greased up badly - some evidence of grease on disc - but thickness outside is 0.164 and inside 0.181. (These are 8 inch OD, 5 inch ID friction material new 0.190 in thick ?) On further inspection, it may be that adjusters were not all in. Tried to clean friction material with lacquer thinner - did some good. Seal inboard appears to be new but may have oil seepage near top.

Plan is to clean up friction disc - maybe sand lightly - and reinstall and readjust. Hope is that oil seal is not leaking. BUT NEED at least 1, preferably both pull rods. Left side bent and right side is clevis that has been welded. Also missing return springs.

First question - need source for pull rods and return springs - believe P/N is either 07180AB or 4091AA for rod (or 08967AB ??) and springs 07138AB. Used rods would be fine.

Next question - is there any hope with cleaning up friction material problem or do I need to replace? And if replace what is best source of material - local clutch rebuilder did MM discs on my UB but they were not riveted.

Last question, if seal is leaking, how much trouble to change seal - looks like significant disassembly or is there an easy way to remove old seal?

Thanks in advance - this is my first DC

You can try to burn the oil off the brake bands with a propane torch, I did that once and it was smoky but it did get it clean. I tried not to get it too hot.
Zach

If the linings are greasy you will need new ones. Steiners tractor parts has them.

As for the springs and rods. I'm sure you can find them on ebay. New linings are available on ebay also.
Find a seller called mr-hainy he has a lot of case stuff

Aced I'm in about the same boat as you. I got my brakes took apart but haven't had time to get back to the job. I've wondered what would be the best way to pull those seals.
I'm also wondering if the shafts might be grooved a little.
In Tool Talk right now there's a thread about Redi-Sleeves. I've heard of them for several years now but haven't ever used one. I don't know if they even make them the right size for this size of shaft.
external_link is another source of 8" x 5" brake linings. They also have the return springs. Saeli has a website.
There's a guy named Tom in Columbia City Indiana who has a bunch of DC parts around his place. He would probably have the brake adjusting rods.
He has some "for sale" adds right now in the Photo Adds section.
He's sent parts to me, and I stopped by his place once when I was up that way. He's a straight shooter. So is his friend Richard.

I have changed seals in three SC's. But never a DC. if it is the same as SC. You will have to drain the fluid and remove the housing the holds the seal. When I put the SC back together. I used a pop can to cover up the splines in the shaft prevent cutting the new seal. I'm guessing a DC shaft will be too large for the pop can to slide over.

speede sleeves are available for all sizes of shafts. If you do have a groove.

tractorguy2 I haven't looked at a parts diagragm in a while. Are the shaft bearing in the same housing that the seal is in? If so will the shaft try to drop down or shift off center when the housing is removed?
Thank you for the info.

yes the seal is in the same housing as the
bearing. The shaft will drop down when you remove
the housing.
The thing you have to watch, is when you pull the
housing out. it will sometimes pull the shaft out
of the seal on the oppsite side.
There is a hand full of shims that will come out.
Just make sure you get them all back in. I coat
each shim with a sealer to prevent leaks. Also
need to put a thread sealer on the bolts.

I think John Saeli sells relining kits. Are the balls rusted? There should be 2 sets in there if they are like the Case SC brakes. I replaced the balls in mine with hardened stainless steel ones that I got from McMaster Carr. The Case SC has a bottom drain hole where the brake housing meets the tractor to let oil out before it gets to the brakes. I try to remember to run a wire up into the hole ocassionally to keep it clear.

A trick I use when doing seals is to apply and lock the opposite brake firmly, even if bad it should apply hard enough to keep the shaft from dropping down. It makes getting a good seal job much easier if the shaft stays up on center. Where there is no seal sleeve available

I use electrical tape to cover the splines and wrap it back to the seal area on the shaft, you can make a few extra wraps to guide the seal up onto a raised seal area. I prefer that to a seal sleeve in some applications. Lubethe seal and tape.

mEl

Sounds like good tips - hoping I can avoid changing seals - they look to be pretty new but still may have seepage on right side. Cleaned off and will let it sit while waiting for friction material.

Thanks, ed

I use clear packaging tape to cover the splines. I think some people cut the end out of plastic water bottles and used them, if you can find one to fit the tightly on the splines.

Thank you for the advice gentlemen.