dc case engine overhaul

I have a 1952 DC Case that is in need of a major overhaul. I have heard of using different sleeves and pistons, ie 3020, DT 466, that would make for a extreme overbore. What combination is most economical for the gain in cubic inches, how much maching work has to be done. Also, in these large over bores will this begin a heating problem. I want to still work the tractor some but, at the same time I enjoy tractor pulling and would like not to be in last place. Best of both worlds if possible.

Ask mEL on the Case forum.

This is the CASE forum>

(quoted from post at 08:11:55 09/15/14) This is the CASE forum>

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I thought was the case/david brown forum. This is my first time using the site. If this is the wrong place please tell me how to get where I need to be.

Try the tractor pull site too, mEL is helpfull there also.

Case D series and its predecessor C series are
some of the toughest and forgeving motors made.
That being said the fellows like Em L and the
late DC Tom were experts at getting the most
out of the Case motors. However the massive
overbores and exectsicc things they do and did
are not for field work. To have the best of
both worlds consider 4 and 1/16 sleeves=piston
combination , reground cam not outlandish just
tweeked a bit. Also propane head, different
venturie in carb(as in Motec engeerging Tipton
Ind), a mag hotter than the hinges of he!!. To
use for some field work make very sure the
radiator is clean, really clean, good heat
transfer.Check the water pump, it must
circulate well or field work will ruin all the
improvements if overheating. Take close care
when fitting the mains and rod(babbit)bearings.
The only way I could do a good job on the
bearings was to pull the engine, place upside
down and take a very long time fitting the
ROUND crank to all bearings. Lots of
plastigauge and patiance will give a smooth
stout bottom end.Do not let a powerfull high
power top end overload the bottom.

This is the right place for you to post your
questions.DB doesn't have their own forum.

That is what i needed to know, thanks.

Having some trouble finding the 4 1/16 engine kit. no problem finding 4in kit. Also, aside from ebay, where is a good place to start looking for a propane head.

Not sure where is the best place besides this site and e bay for both 4 1/16 and propane head. I have neither any more to sell as I am out of the pulling game. Old age will do that!! Just once in a while someone on this site may find a set to sell. I do have a set of rings to fit the pistons. However as I recall there are just two makers of the pistons and the ring set are not interchangable. If you find pistons a good machine shop can bore your sleeves to proper size. Most late 53 Dseries tractors will have 4 inch aluminus pistons. I think all DE power units have 4 inch aluminum pistons. Be sure to use aluminum pistons if you plan on highre rpms. DE power units ran couple hundred rpm higher than tractors with cast iron pistons. Cast has a lot of weight to be sling around. That being said the motors have great torque at rated or slightly higher rpm.Don't try to buzz the engine over 2000 max rpm or even 1700. Its just not necessary as case engines develope torque at sensebale levels and will still pull till the last breath. They just dont quite like some others. You can measure piston size in scrap yards without pulling head through hand holes. thats where Most 4 1/16 will be found Good luck.

Get ahold of Doug Boll if you want it to live as the rear main
must have a brace. Unless you want a broken crank. There is
not much more than a milled propane head and 100+ octane
gas. Easy get 65pto horse power at 1500 RPM's with no oil in
the air cleaner but some artificial material filtering the intake
air. If Bruce Nelson is still around he could help.
Oh yes buy some starter bendix's unless you want to pull start
it. It will run at 225 on the temp gauge. Ours was a propane.